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Thread: Mahogany table & chairs

  1. #61
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    Andrew, Until you threw the oil to them, It was hard to see how much attention you had paid to the grain layout(I should have known better and looked harder). They almost beg to be sat on. Especially like top boards,arm rests and seat grains. Like the asymmetrical backrest detail. Customer should be thrilled
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  2. #62
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    Sep 2013
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    Lakin KS
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    Nice! Very Sam Maloof'ish inspired.
    Tom Bachman,
    Drafting/Woodworking Instructor RETIRED!
    Lakin, Kansas

    2001 PRT4896
    https://i.imgur.com/xWEFfDk.jpg

  3. #63
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    Timmins, Ontario, Canada
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    Well, I went in to work this morning, to have a look at the table top... wow its awesome! I was very careful in keeping everything clean, but it still took a little luck to get a top this large free of any dust & debris that can potentially fall on the fresh lacquer' surface and cause me grief.







    Also sealed the chairs with two coats of lacquer.



    I hope Monday to assemble the table and get a final shot of it all together, with the bench. And, hopefully finish spraying the chairs.

  4. #64
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    Andrew, One heck of a lot better looking than my tax forms How many coats?
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottp55 View Post
    Andrew, One heck of a lot better looking than my tax forms How many coats?
    Well, for the table this is what was done..

    1-bottom side was sealed with 4 coats of lacquer

    2-top side sealer coats - two passes (first cross grain, then with the grain) x2
    then I drop filled any small checks, cracks, etc with thin CA adhesive (no kicker, just drop a little CA into the crevice and let it harden on its own.. makes a great filler that is transparent when overcoated.

    3-then the whole top was sanded with a random orbital, with 220 to level off the finish and remove bubbles (mahogany is very porous)

    4-repeat #2 & 3

    at this point, even though I have technically sprayed the equivalent of 8 coats of finish, at least 1/2 of that was sanded off to level off the finish.

    5-spot sand any dust/hair/bubble marks with 240 stearated paper by hand, then scuff the top with a medium (maroon) Scotchbrite, and go over the edges of the top as well.

    6- two more coats of finish with the retarder added to slow down the cure time and let the finsih flow out really well.

    At that point, cross my fingers, close the spray room lights and wait to see what it looks like the day after (which was today).

    The grain is almost completely filled at this point with finish even though the total thickness isnt excessive. Some grain (texture that is) is still visible and when the finish fully cures in a few weeks and shrinks, a little more will be apparent. This to me gives the look of an older, hand rubbed finish VS a modern thick, polished out plastic looking finish.

    I love the durability the catalyzed lacquer gives, but still retains the old school look of a wood finish that is relatively thin and not super glossy. Most of the gloss actually comes from the finsih being leveled out well by sanding, VS using a glossy finish. I am using a 35 degree sheen lacquer which is actually considered a satin.

    If that makes sense... I compare it to looking at an old musical instrument. The new guitars have a thick, plastic like poly finish that doesn't show any "wood" character as the pores and grain texture are completely filled in and then the top coats built up to an excessiveness. Older guitars finished in a nitrocellulose lacquer show the subtle nature of the grains, etc through the finish and just look "better" to me.

  6. #66
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    Andrew, Thanks for the point by point. Made perfect sense, but your clean room is bigger than either of our shops We could use a lacquer finish in our repertoire for the protection factor. Still using hand rubbed oils, and oil varnish blend as it's the easiest to teach beginners up North and a "close your eyes and pick" among 5 differently finished sections of a board, 90% pick oil. Dad went to a NE college Trade show in Vermont last week with a bag of samples and a guy that reps 15 colleges skimmed over them until he got to the oiled cherry crib board. He called the University of Vermont buyers over(They sponsored the show) and they forgot Dad was there as they started talking where to place it in the shop and alumni catalog and how much they could get for it Rambling. Thank you Again Andrew.
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  7. #67
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    Can't believe I am passing on a possible suggestion to MR Coholic but my piano tuners' son does high end restorations including pianos. To finish a piano top he hangs it upside down so nothing can fall on it as it dries.

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimDav View Post
    Can't believe I am passing on a possible suggestion to MR Coholic but my piano tuners' son does high end restorations including pianos. To finish a piano top he hangs it upside down so nothing can fall on it as it dries.
    Id not have the nerve to get under this top, if it were hanging in the booth upside down to spray... it would kill me if it came loose!

    Interesting method though - makes sense for smaller or more manageable things.

    Here is the table done, and the chairs. Another job just needing to be delivered. On to the next!


  9. #69
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