Finger/Box Joint Software

[srwtlc]

Yeah, unless you have some large panels/sides, a 0.375 ballnose doesn't leave you with a lot of variation choices. It did allow me to play around with it a bit and see that the finger length columns start on the right and zig-zag back and forth for order. I was trying to get the large middle finger to be shorter, but could only get half of it to do so, giving me the stepped finger, but with the jagged intersection, so I just went with it full length. Settings I used are attached. It fit pretty tight, so I could have allowed more for glue gap. The attempted negative overcut was -0.197.

G,
Yeah, I found that the finger length part of the cut is one thing affected by that and had to do a little chisel work to clean up the radius left on the end of the fingers. What do you think about doing a small zig-zag or smooth ramp for the start of the end cuts instead of three full depth plunges? It might be better for keeping the tool a bit cooler. Although this was more pronounced in my case as I was using 0.8125" material along with 0.375"+ more due to overcut. Just made it a bit more interesting as it drove the 4 flute 0.375" bit all the way down in one 90ipm shot! PM sent.

[scottp55]

Scott, I Like your settings, very similar to what I settled on(may work my way up to G's speeds and go 0" on glue gap though as I'm touching fingers with either 400G abralon or 120G 1" 3M RadialBristleDisks to eliminate tearout and allow a easy dry fit on "baby fingers" prior to gluing). Yep, That initial plunge is NOT something I would ever normally do, and it does kind of take you by surprise you--- doesn't it Aggravated by your material thickness and bit, but really points it out! At minimum should be peck drilled.
Would be nice to have fingerjoint cauls for a web clamp, but each would have to be custom. Finally just used Bessy K's with a spacer and joints are super tight with uniform squeeze out. Great Job G. ! Using TB III, but realize I've got to get faster or have 30 minutes open time. Picked up TB PU yesterday, but seem to remember I got discoloration similar to Gorilla glue on some woods. Is there another glue with longer open time similar to TBIII that I'm not aware of?

[Burkhardt]

..... Yep, That initial plunge is NOT something I would ever normally do, and it does kind of take you by surprise you--- doesn't it .....

Got to try that again, too.

For whole boards it should never plunge (i.e. drill) to full depth because it cuts the ends and sides first in depth layers. If the side cut is disabled, that may however happen when boards are used that are wider than specified. Then the cross-cut will start both ends with 3 or 4 strokes of a vertical full depth "sawing" motion under the assumption that this begins outside the board in free air and in small steps. The reason for this unusual move is my attempt to minimize side tear-out when the bit breaks through the surface. Such tear-out (splintering) can ruin the entire project.

But if that causes more trouble than is worth I can just as well remove it and do the cross-cut in a more standard fashion or have a separate check box for it.

[Roy Harding]

... Using TB III, but realize I've got to get faster or have 30 minutes open time. Picked up TB PU yesterday, but seem to remember I got discoloration similar to Gorilla glue on some woods. Is there another glue with longer open time similar to TBIII that I'm not aware of?

I've been using Lee Valley's 2002 GF Cabinet Maker's glue for years. )http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...10,42965,45104)

I make dove-tailed blanket chests on a regular basis - for glue-up, I cut the 2002 GF glue with water (about 2:1 glue:water) to give me a longer open time. I've never had a failure. (Clamping time is also extended, don't forget that part)

I'm not sure that I'd thin the glue on anything other than a dovetail or finger joint - the mechanical properties of those two joints ensure an excellent bond even with thinned glue.

[Burkhardt]

O.K., here we go again. New Beta is published.

Numerous bug fixes:
- cutting too deep into the spoilboard
- initial plunge for cross-cut is now a "peck drill" procedure (in case the cross-cut ends are unintentionally over wood).
- re-arranged the finger length table to make more intuitive
- eliminated the "fingers per pattern" input. It is now automatically counted from the finger table
- corrected re-loading of checkboxes and radiobuttons
- tweaked the sample configuration files
- corrected slot location for drawer bottom slots
- Used new compiler that hopefully avoids the program crash on Win XP machines (still needs to be checked).
- improved the finger length feasibility check.
- amended the user guide

[scottp55]

Roy, Thanks for tip, will have to try.
G. , You've been BUSY Thanks!

[scottp55]

Anybody get an updated user Guide? Not seeing ANY .pdf or .txt besides my license, and it asks me to look at it. G. ? Am I just not awake enough to see it

[bob_dodd]

G

Thank for the fixes , will give it a try today , previous version and newest version running on windows XP Thanks

[scottp55]

Never Mind Got .pdf when extracted with 7-Zip.

[scottp55]

Spindle start is good with pause, feel more comfortable with "pecking action". Much less spoilboard cut . Kept changing my bit to .122" from .1215" but NBD just annoying. No problems noted on A-B cut with fingers parallel with grain. 1/8" Onsrud 90 IPM, 50% bit diameter cut, 15K. Good clean cut. Thanks G.!