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Thread: VR vs. fillet?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
    Posts
    4,076

    Default VR vs. fillet?

    I'm beginning to use clamps and wedges for hold downs instead of screws(Yeah). But a lot of the existing designs are maxed out for the width of the wood and was typically using a .25" down for cutout and it would just skim the dimensioned sides of the boards and now it would cut into my wedge or fence. Bought a .1235" EM with 4F and 1" CEL and tweaked it so I can get 2.6 IPS out of it and a good edge cut so it's usable. Question; It slows down on the 90's and SCREAMS because of the slow corner speed. This would be a good time to Play with VR Ala Brady's article, but we have 2 machines separated by 350 miles and we are both beginners and I don't want to have 2 VR settings and try to explain via e-mail and phone what I did. Northern Desktop USUALLY only cuts files I have drawn here. Would it be simpler to create a fillet that doesn't trigger the slow corner speed and mod my existing files? Is there a way to tell in advance what radius corner for a certain radius bit will trigger the slow corner speed without trial and error? Thanks all. I hope I explained that OK.
    Scott Plaisted
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 9
    Maine

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,271

    Default

    Once you've got the VR settings the way you like them you can save them as a custom setting and email them to be loaded on the other machine.

    It's well worth the time setting it up. I moved from doing mainly large cabinet style work to hundreds of smaller items and had all sorts of problem trying to get the "slow" stuff right until I got the VR settings dialled in. I've now got them as my default settings with the cabinet style ones as an optional set I load when needed.
    The answers to a lot of questions can be found at http://www.shopbottools.com/ShopBotDocs/ or http://support.vectric.com/

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Posts
    967

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by scottp55 View Post
    ....... .... and now it would cut into my wedge or fence......
    Scott, do yourself a favor and try a vacuum pod setup. I messed around with screws and clamps for 2 years before I saw the light. All you need is a refurbished 1/2 or 3/4 hp GAST pump from Bay for $150 or so. They are pretty quiet. Get some 3/8" air hose and cut a few simple pods from plywood. A reservoir can be helpful but is optional. It took me less than a weekend to get it set up and nowadays I use it for 90% of the jobs. Much flatter clamping, you can go to the edge and held down in seconds. Only for very rough materials and things with many through-holes I use clamps or screws
    Box Joint, Dovetail, Guilloche and MazeMaker Software Here

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Thorp, WI
    Posts
    2,672

    Default

    Much like Adrian, I use custom VR settings for 3D and small v-carving. The best way to utilize them is to set them up as custom cut files and you can load them easily anytime you want. Once you've got a VR setting you like, save those settings with 'US' to somewhere convenient like the desktop, open the file in SBedit and copy just the VR line, then open the file named Custom23.sbc found in C:\SbParts\Custom in SBedit and follow the instructions therein to make your own custom cut file that will show up on the Cuts menu with the name you gave it. Be sure to save one out that is your default settings first and make a custom cut for that one too. Now you can switch back and forth any time you want and you can share the file with your other machine too. By using/copying just the VR line of the saved settings file, you don't risk changing any other of the machine settings if there is anything different from one to the other.

    You could also call up any of these custom cut settings from within a file by calling the C# for the file.

    A four flute cutter needs to be fed more material to keep the chip load up and thus keep it from screaming. This is hard to do if the cut file has a lot of corners, but changing the slow corner setting can help along with ramp rate and ramp speed. You just need to take time to play with it to find your sweet spot and then save them.
    Scott

    If guns kill people, I guess pencils misspell words, cars drive drunk and spoons make people fat.

    "Those who hammer their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not" - Thomas Jefferson




  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
    Posts
    4,076

    Default

    Thanks People, All good advice. Time to print out some articles and open a new entry in my log.
    Scott Plaisted
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 9
    Maine

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Evergreen Wood Designs, LLC, Acton Mass 01720
    Posts
    415

    Default Agree with Mr. Burkhardt

    I bought a simple vacuum pump at Harbor Freight, cut a dozen size pucks that can be at attached with 4 screws to the table and 1/4" reinforced clear plastic lines. I also use the 1/4" quick disconnects so I can attach any puch to the pump easily.

    Used gasketing and it works GREAT. I use it for sanding all the time because you can hold from underneath and go at it.

    It was my best investment in the shop this year.

    If I have repeat work (Oval signs) I screw the puck down and ndonthen screw a plywood template to align the work repeatedly. I have never had the puck fail to hold the work.

    Thanks

    Bob Condon

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