M1911 grips

[scottp55]

Wow, They have a spalted curly slab to die for

[POPS 64]

Adam , Scott , very nice work by both of you. Would it be possible to get file info ? My son just bought his first pistol and I'd like to suprise him with custom grips for his birthday and at the same time dad should have a set.

[elcar903]

Jeff here is a link to download the 3D models I used to make the grips and pictures of my bits, endmills feeds/speeds setting I used as well.

3D models may have to be rotated on the import screen,
the software I use to make them X,Y,Z, coordinates don't export right for some reason

just unzip to get the files.
http://www.mechlinkv3.net/downloads/...ip_project.zip

I run a 1/8 endmill to roughing tool path,
then I run a 1/8 ballnose under the 3D finish tool path,
next I run the 1/8 vbit on the finish 3D tool path.

I use the same 1/8 endmill to cut out the part, don't forget
to add tabs to the cut so it doesn't mess the grips up.


hope this helps.


you can use whatever setting ans feeds/speeds you wish these
are just what I run.

[POPS 64]

Adam thank you for your time and your info , looking forward to trying this out
jeff

[srwtlc]

Here's the base grip files for the ones I did. I've removed all the copyrighted material. The textures for the diamonds and dragon scales are in it. If you don't have Aspire, then there are a couple of stl's for use in PW3d/Cut 3d and a crv file for the placement of the screw holes and countersinks. These were designed for a Ruger SR1911, but should fit any standard 1911.

I used a 0.25" downcut endmill for the screw holes, countersinks, and 3d roughing, a 0.125" ballnose for just the plain grip with or without the thumb notch, and a 0.040" ballnose for the diamonds or scales (a 0.0625 ballnose might work, but won't give as good a detail, or a sharp pointed v-bit may work too, much like Adam did with his for the 3d finish path). If you add any models to it like I did the dragon and eagle, you'll likely want a small ballnose like the 0.040". You'll also have to pay attention to the combine mode and placement in the component list. They need to be above the grip bases and set to merge and some base adjustment may be needed. There are a few different outlines of the grip and these were used as boundary vectors and also for trimming the textures to the grip shape as desired. The very outer outline is the outline of the grip models with the 10% draft. This draft gives a bit better edge cut and some relief for the small ballnose I used. The stl files were made from the draft models. The other left/right grip models don't have a draft applied.

If you have any questions, just ask.

Grip files on my SkyDrive (now OneDrive). Choose to download folder under folder actions.

[srwtlc]

Forgot to mention, that if you have Aspire, you can turn off the diamond and scales and then turn on the larger diamonds or scales and trim them to the whole grip or all but the bevel or make your own boundary to trim with. You can also take the large scales model and transform it to put your own twist on it.

The top back edge of the left grip needs to have a relief ground in it for the plunger tube. I just use a sanding drum on a dremel or a small spindle sander drum.

[pappybaynes]

This is great! Thank you all for the files, and the information. Is there a specific place that one would look for files of other pistol / revolver makes and models?? Thanks, Dick

[srwtlc]

Here's another try at the spalted maple grips. These turned out real nice. Also, a couple pair of quilted maple ones ( @ Scott P). They were book matched, but due to the way the grain changed or faded off as the model was revealed, they would have looked better if the pairs were swapped.

A couple of coats of Danish oil to soak in and give them some depth, followed by 6 coats of Tru-Oil with a final rub out with 0000 steel wool loaded with some carnauba wax and then buffed out. The pictures really don't do them justice, as the chatoyance really goes deep and moves when tilted.

[scottp55]

Spalted turned out GREAT See what you mean, the 2 darkers should be together. Photographing that stuff is as hard as opal. Looks great finished!

[elcar903]

looks great