horizontal keyholes-Notched

[scottp55]

Been Putzing with one horizontal keyhole pattern with notches to keep it from sliding that can be used with any of the horizontal proto's I've been playing with that need or would be nice to hang.
Don't want to get started here as it's all posted on Vectric forum.
http://forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=20129

Just a few pics to explain. Main trick seemed to be NOT to run an 1/8" EM to eliminate waste in slot. Will post .crv on Vectric after a couple more species and MC's and trying different screws on a wall.

[gundog]

Have you tried using air to help get the wood chips out while you are cutting? I added an air nozzle to my old PRS for cutting dovetail slots in plastic and it made a huge difference.

I used an inexpensive line lock nozzle from Enco that came with a ball valve and just aimed the nozzle at the bit.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=866&PMCTLG=00

Mike

[scottp55]

Thanks Michael, Bookmarked. Haven't tried any air yet, Need to get some overhead air as cords and hoses really trip up the wheelchair(usually with a finished piece or a cup of coffee in my lap). Been cutting keyholes with a 3/8" ball end plunge as it was already in the toolpath anyways for a vertical, but now making blanks for many things and prefinishing, but we never know what the customer wants carved so looking at a 1 size fits most and just plunking a template at midpoint seemed best.
Will buy one and try(need more air on the Delta 18"VS scroll saw cuts anyways), thanks again.
Who makes a high quality 3/8"key keyhole bit suitable for production? Bit's warmer than I would like,but I can still keep my finger on it(I run the ball plunge 4 times faster and get a better cut-wierd).

[scottp55]

Oh. Only using a cheapy Rockler 3/8" 1/4" shank because it was the only brand new one I had in the right size.

[srwtlc]

Scott, is that bit a single flute or double flute? I find that the 1/2" shank double flute ones work better and last longer. This is my preferred one.

Something you could try would be to make the 'sawtooth' path be wavy (cut the entry/wavy first, backtrack to clean out some and climb cut the straight and back). This might allow for a bit tighter horizontal adjustment and possibly be easier to move from one to the other. Just a thought.

[scottp55]

Scott, Bookmarked and not much more-Thanks. It's a double flute. Just about dialed in and I know Kirk has same bit so I'll finish up. "Wavy" is an idea I'll play with once I get this to work consistently for his 3 production woods.
Just discovered WD-40 AIN'T Boeshield or even TopCote! Jointer got tucked into corner when 'Bot arrived and I had oilstoned it and the WD'd to clean up and then 'Bot arrived and I forgot and it got covered with the packing material. Just went to use it and RUST! Then took LH table extension for unisaw down from shelf where it's been since I replaced it with the sliding table 10 yrs ago(using it on right side of my box) and it WAS Boeshielded and all I have to do is buff it off!
Rambling-Time to go get rusty
You thinking "sine wave" like curve, or zig-zag that the bit will radius?
Thanks