Paul and Damien's Vinlay

[scottp55]

Oh! And the "Twig" pic.
Patience.... Paul was the one to say TBI "Wait at LEAST 24 hours before unclamping..........."

[paul_z]

(Rockler Medium- Think Thick might be better, but not sure, as I don't have any yet-Paul?)

I have no idea. If there is a hobby shop near you, you might be able to get small bottles of each and experiment. I think I've seen thin, thick and gel at dollar stores. Call around.

The 24 hour wait is for Tightbond. If I remember correctly, CA uses water vapor as a catalyst (somewhat like urethane glue). Misting the inlay parts should speed up the setting of the CA glue and cause the wood to swell a bit, reducing any gaps.

It might be worth trying the following to eliminate any fuzzies.
1. Cut the male and female parts of the inlay once.
2. Brush thin CA on both parts and let it cure. (Maybe use some fast set?)
3. Cut a final pass on both parts.

Paul Z

[MogulTx]

WOW! You have a whole new direction now! Nice efforts here! Keep it up! You are making me want to seek out some files and see what I can do.

Great stuff!

Monty

[scottp55]

Thanks Paul, Will experiment with different CA's--Medium worked great on the zebra because it "flowed" into tiny portions. Did Notice a difference in "fuzzies" when I had used a small batch of 50/50 thinned Lacquer for the .1" deep zebras/vultures and when I forgot to do it--little cleaner cuts.
Just unclamped TB I twig. I picked up some TB PU that says it has 30 minute open time with 100% cure in 4 hours(want to see glue line color as may try it for fingerboxes also)--Thought I might give that a try too on the fonts that I'm going to cross section.
Wonder if Thinned Lacquer will work instead of CA before the finish pass--Think I'll try both, But as soon as thin stock arrives it's back to buttons
Tips are MUCH appreciated.
twig should be cut out by 11--will post pics(hope figure shows up like I thought it would).

[scottp55]

Just a couple of pics. Thinking of Scott S and Monty I surfaced whole board on the TBI'd twig and then just 150,220,320G, so "twig" was ZERO glue gap, TBI,clamped 36hours. Shop should be aired out from naptha now, got to do font now.

[shilala]

Lookin good, Scotty!!!
Back up a little for me, will ya? I'm not sure I understand what you did a couple posts above.
Did you say you lacquered the male parts before you made your last v-carve pass?
If you didn't, it's damn near genius anyways.
It'd be super easy to shellac the inlay before the last pass, and I bet it'd go a long, long way towards holding back chips, especially on open grained stuff like oak.

Other question...
You're using CA to glue up the inlays? What the heck is CA? It's not that water-cured gorilla glue, is it? Hook me up with a link, will you please?

[scottp55]

Scott, lacquered both woods before carving anything. Right hand zebra you can see on the backbone and between the legs where I forgot to lacquer and the naptha couldn't get in and neither will my oil finish.
CA is CyanoAcrylate also known as Superglue. Mine is CA TiteBond Medium viscosity that I bought at Rockler.

[scottp55]

OK, Good example of why NOT to design on the fly
Used Vivaldi bold for a font, Usually have to node edit and it won't carve until you convert to curves and play with it. I have an .eps that I made that has "Wood" in it, and I should have imported it, BUT tried it first and it carved!
Very good example of why I should have ZOOMED in 2D and checked the "solid".
Vcarved fine, but when mirrored and VInlay'd a portion of the "W" was funky and should have deleted some nodes. On the "d" it overlapped and totally skipped that section and I had to do a little palm chiseling, I should have separated that vector in node editing. At first I thought the board had shifted as the wood in top left had started lifting during clearance cut I ran after VCarving(good reason to use LH FEM).
I think I rescued it, but this may be my cross-section example
"Other than that Mrs Lincoln"
Fingers crossed in the morning.

[scottp55]

More pics..

[scottp55]

Forgot the "biggie".