pocket toolpath not even

[scottp55]

Thanks for chiming in Scott, Was going to reply,but never bought the Infinity and my SETools 3/4" (with the extra brazing removed that caused lines)still isn't perfect. Best/easiest finish for me up to now on smaller pocket is a .5"BallNose and hogging out with a .02" pocket allowance and a 49-50% stepover climb cut, Then a full depth skin pass with a ramped lead-in profile pass first conventional cut with feed/speed increased, BUT the 5-8% stepover needed for minimal sanding is a dealbreaker for production times.
Thanks for the extra 2 suppliers-Got to get one of them Puppies(probably only a 1" for the Desktop though).

[Brady Watson]

I have never seen a 3-d project come off a SB, or in fact any CNC that didn't cost a huge amount of money, that didn't then need a considerable amount of sanding to really make it high-end sweet. It is what it is.

That sounds so negative about SBs and not true. If you are a noob @ 3D - yeah OK, but that is true on any machine. Visit my shop...I'll show you how it's done on my 14 yr old PRT first, then on my Desktop machine. All carvings require at least some sanding - not to correct blems or erase tool marks, but to prepare it for finishing - no matter what color the machine is.

-B

[scottp55]

Brady, Off topic slightly, but just started noticing when VInlaying that I could run the male pass 4 times(I was working on something else at the time so just kept RR'ing to get the VERY last fuzz off) and had the vac off and even after 3 passes I could STILL hear it cutting an infinitesimal amount. True that was probably wood movement on the 1/4" stock, But to some extant it even happens on 6/4.
NOT enough to worry about at ALL, but just about to go into shop to do the Z-Mod on the Desktop and wondering if there is anything special to look for while I've got all ripped apart?
Now I'm going to regret Razzing you yesterday! I just KNOW it!!
Grateful Acolyte

[Brady Watson]

NOT enough to worry about at ALL, but just about to go into shop to do the Z-Mod on the Desktop and wondering if there is anything special to look for while I've got all ripped apart?

Scott,
No worries.

How did you tram the Z when you put it on? I use the tail of a digital caliper to check spindle to spindle plate parallel and then use a dial indicator against the spindle mounting plate and run it up & down to see if/where it is out - then adjust accordingly. It's a little time consuming - but it's one of those things that will shoot you in the foot until you get it *perfect*.

A word to the wise - for anyone doing the longer Z - put a dab of Never-Seize on the Z to spindle mounting plate or they will lock up on you. I had to grind a slot in 2 of mine & then impact them out with a screwdriver & hammer. Galvanic action of steel to aluminum is rough...

-B

[Burkhardt]

........started noticing when VInlaying that I could run the male pass 4 times(I was working on something else at the time so just kept RR'ing to get the VERY last fuzz off) and had the vac off and even after 3 passes I could STILL hear it cutting an infinitesimal amount.....

Besides the possible wood movement keep in mind that depending on your milling direction (conv/climb) the bit is pulled left or right relative to the machining direction. The amount depends on the bit flex (a slim end mill or a v-bit with 1/4" shank will be less rigid than 1/2" shank). The fact that the very tip of a sharp v-bit does not actually cut but only drags through the wood probably does not help. On top of that you have spindle/router bearing play and machine flex, although I would guess the Desktop is pretty rigid. Therefore the second cut will usually still remove substantial material. Doing further cuts on my machine I still can hear sometimes but I see no chips or dust so I guess the flutes just touch protruding wood fibers, making that whirr.

[scottp55]

Thanks Brady/G.
Unfortunately Brady, I got to read it after I was all finished as trying to get my helper back to HIS shop.
Good info! Can I copy/paste onto Z-Mod Thread?
Forgot about Galvanic but did Boeshield both plates and wiped off excess and used same rag to wipe back of spindle. Didn't Tail anything, but my Iron Age $1.69 Ace Hardware 1/8"X12" (.1238") brass rod from hobby section made a decent(for me) trammel. Used Starrett 12" rule from my square laid flat, got close, and Fixed moved down .01" at a time and got it pretty close.
Interesting was Fixed Move was abrupt enough to cause visible oscillation at the tip(9" away from spindle center). Then I set Fixed Mode to .005" and got all 4 points of the compass to where a fixed move up let it vibrate, and then a Fixed Move down dampened it.
Close enough and done for today.
Thanks again, and sorry to get off topic. Will post on Z-Mod thread.

[rseeley13]

Ryan,

Try a good quality bowl & tray bit. I use the 1.25" diameter ones for production work and can easily sand out any marks. Best ones I've had are CMT, Jesada, and Infinity. Cheap ones can sometimes not be flat across the bottom.

Scott,
I would have used that but this design has curves that I couldn't fit a large bit in the corners. Had to use a smaller core bit and then an end mill to clear out.

[srwtlc]

They make a 3/4" one, but I haven't gotten as clean/smooth results with them as the larger ones.

[Kyle Stapleton]

I thought you were on vacation?

[srwtlc]

I am.....gotta check in when we hit the next hotel/WiFi ya know.