Need More Z; Spindle Mounted Too Low

[SBaircraft]

We have sufficient Z travel, but not all of it is "useful". As the shows, the spindle collet lowers around 1" below the surface of the power stick; more than two inches below the surface of the spoil board. I'd prefer for the travel start at the surface of the spoil board and end a couple inches higher than our current setup allows.

Is there a way to physically mount the spindle a little higher? Thanks!

[SBaircraft]

Related Question... where do I adjust the safe Z height in the control software. We know how to set the safe Z in Partworks and Vcarve. However, there appears to be another safe Z height setting in the control software. For example, you can tell the shopbot to "move to home at safe Z" within the control software. Where do we change this? Thanks again!

[srwtlc]

David,

Take a look at the mounting holes in the Z column and see if you can raise it up to a higher set of holes, or you could drill some new ones. As long as you keep the bottom of the collet the lowest point, you should be okay. Be sure to check for it being perpendicular to the table again.

On the safe Z, check out VC (Values Cutter).

[Brady Watson]

David,
If you raise up the entire gantry under the end plates 3", it'll be *perfect* with the factory Z. It doesn't cost much to raise it up using AL extrusion and splice plates from 8020.net - There is nothing you can do to the factory configuration to get more Z travel without adding something to lift up the gantry or drilling holes to lower the entire table down. Having done each at customers' requests - it is far easier to raise up the gantry. I'll spare you the details unless you are interested. It's way easier than you may be imagining & if you don't like it, stock config is just a few bolts away. If you're crafty, I've given you all the info you need...

-B

[Ajcoholic]

I'd be interested in details on that mod... Specifically what parts from where are needed.

It's not too often I wish I had a bit more height. But I do have some extended length bits that I have had to put a wee big more into the collet than ideal. And that's asking for trouble I know - broken bit and/or damaged collet.

[Simops]

David,
If you raise up the entire gantry under the end plates 3", it'll be *perfect* with the factory Z. It doesn't cost much to raise it up using AL extrusion and splice plates from 8020.net - There is nothing you can do to the factory configuration to get more Z travel without adding something to lift up the gantry or drilling holes to lower the entire table down. Having done each at customers' requests - it is far easier to raise up the gantry. I'll spare you the details unless you are interested. It's way easier than you may be imagining & if you don't like it, stock config is just a few bolts away. If you're crafty, I've given you all the info you need...

-B

Brady there is a 80-20 dealer in Sydney here but I spoke to him some time ago and he could not match up the extrusion exactly so I shied away from further enquiries......now this thread has reminded me about this again......maybe it's because he only had metric......I gather it's imperial of course! Do you have a 80-20 part number for the extrusion.....might have to look at whether it's viable to import an imperial part?

Cheers

[Brady Watson]

Look on the 8020 store on Ebay. 1530 Extrusion (2pcs) and then some 15 series joining plates (4), and you'll need bolts, washers and t-nuts. They stack right on top of the existing 1.5x6" existing ones & the joining plates lock everything together.

Have a friend help lift the gantry onto some horses & then add the 3" extrusions. and plates. Then place gantry back on, square it up, bolt it up & enjoy.

Bob - Just saw your post. You can use 4080 metric and make custom splice plates. The 40 will hang over .07" to the inside...No big deal.

-B

[SBaircraft]

Thanks Brady. I will buy some extrusion. I'm just surprised that it came to the factory this way.

[Joe Porter]

Owning a Buddy, I've often wondered about just un-bolting the side plates to the extrusion and moving them up a notch (1.5") and then adding a drilled out spacer block to the top of the extrusion with longer bolts and gaining Z height that way...joe

[Brady Watson]

It works well. A lot of the acoustic guitar guys love it for those thick necks.

-B