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Thread: Cheap China v-bit

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    Pasadena, CA
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    986

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    I did some extensive comparison testing with a variety of bits last January and posted the results HERE. Included were some Amana, Kyocera, Whiteside, CMT and China/Ebay.

    The cheap China bits did actually very well when used with the proper strategy. The CMT cut quite well, too but my 60 degree CMT bit has a horrific angle error. It may be a Monday lemon but 55.6 degrees instead of 60 is pretty bad. All other bits, even the cheap ones had very accurate angles better than +/-0.5 degrees.

    My lesson for deep V-carve cuts (say > 1/2"): I must rough down in moderate steps with significant skin left on because some bits are better than others, but generally the waterlines are unavoidable. For roughing the bit should have a tip radius for least tear-out. After that the finish cut to be done with a large sharp-tipped bit in a single depth step cut to clean up.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    gleason, wi 54435
    Posts
    449

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    Whatever bits you buy, do yourself a favor and buy a 10x loupe to inspect your resharpened bits. There is a huge difference in grind quality from 1 sharpener to the next. your cut quality will be directly impacted.
    Bob

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
    Posts
    4,419

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    Fred, looks like you've got a good wood supplier close by. I'd start with Cherry,Black Walnut, and Maple(Maple "Fuzzies" are bad, so run toolpath until you are satisfied BEFORE you take it off machine and it will save you HOURS of sanding-Write a second toolpath with a 90% deeper pass depth and twice(or more) your original X,Y,Z move speeds for the clean up passes.
    For exotics, I personally Love Padauk,Bloodwood, and now Purpleheart.
    One thing I have noticed is that for a "busy" design--go a "plain wood" as the highly figured wood figure just disappears in the design, and for "plain and simple" designs-- use the "Busy-Highly Figured" woods, as It's very difficult to beat Mother Nature at her best.
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    ny
    Posts
    834

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    Quote Originally Posted by bobmoore View Post
    Whatever bits you buy, do yourself a favor and buy a 10x loupe to inspect your resharpened bits. There is a huge difference in grind quality from 1 sharpener to the next. your cut quality will be directly impacted.
    Bob
    Thats why I sharpen my own stuff, the shops take off way too much material the difference between sharp and dull is a very small amount.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
    Posts
    114

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    Thank you for all the input on various bits. I bought some diamond stones to try my hand at sharpening my own. Works great on straight flat edges.

    Thanks Scott for the wood info, I'll be sure to try some of those as soon as I can get over to the mill. I'll need a pocket full of money, the last time I was there it was like a candy store. LOL
    Fred

    ------------------------------------
    Call-Tech Services, Inc Waterford, Mi
    PRTAlpha48x96
    3.25hp PC, 4 Zone Vacuum Table

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    Thank you to everyone who shares on this forum!
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  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    iBILD Solutions - Southern NJ
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    7,986

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    Quote Originally Posted by Call-Tech View Post
    Works great on straight flat edges.
    Works great on straight & V-bits too...Soapy water + rubby rubby = sharpy sharpy. (Unless you have chunks missing from the edge)

    -B
    High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
    Posts
    114

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    I'm embarrassed to say how badly I screwed up all my initial bits that I got with my bot. Live and learn... Don't use deck screws to hold down spoil board! even counter sunk, you reach them eventually. They are not repairable. Lost a few more spirals to wrong speeds and feeds.. did not know carbide could burn to the point of destruction... They Can! I have not killed any bits in a long time, but sure did in allot of very expensive bits in the beginning.
    Fred

    ------------------------------------
    Call-Tech Services, Inc Waterford, Mi
    PRTAlpha48x96
    3.25hp PC, 4 Zone Vacuum Table

    ------------------------------------

    Thank you to everyone who shares on this forum!
    "I hear and I forget, I see and I remember, I do and I understand"

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    344

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    I've been to Armstrong quite a few times, their stash of wood is quite amazing.
    For 3D some of the best is purple heart, walnut and padauk. All very dense wood, shapes extremely well and not too expensive [as far as exotics go]. Wenge is nice too, but a plank of that is a wallet buster for sure. Zebra wood is cool, but due to its wild variation in grain which is its hallmark, many subjects look way too "busy" using it. I have planks of it sitting waiting for a use, hard to find suitable subjects.
    Cocobolo and bocote top my exotic favs, both very expensive and hard to find.

    Rocklers/Woodcraft also often have a nice selection of exotic and domestic planks, sometimes you do go into sticker shock rummaging through the planks, other times you feel you are getting a great deal ... And keep in mind good old poplar and cedar from home depots can also be very good options for 3D, but just don't get any plank, look for attractive grain patterns.

    Pictured below is a 3D gun & matching base I recently did in purpleheart. Wouldn't try it with a vbit ,,, Is about 10x7", took about 2.5 hours using a .125 tapered ballnose.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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