Cutting on a tilted plane

[myxpykalix]

My free dxf viewer license expired so i can't draw it and save the 2d view so let me see if i can describe what i want to do.

The end goal is to drill a hole at a 30 degree angle in a 2x4 so that the dowel that is inserted sticks up at an angle and two of these create a rack.


My thought was to cut a jig to hold the 2x4 at a 30 degree angle to the router.

Then i could drill my 3 holes in a 36" long 2x4 at 10" apart

Here is my question.....visualize your 2x4 sitting in the X axis and the first hole is higher then the third hole. If i want to just make this a 2d toolpath to cut these holes, how would i program the height of the different holes as depths to get the same bottom depths? Am i explaining it correctly?

[steve_g]

Jack…
Rise =5” run = 8.66”
SG

[myxpykalix]

My board is 36" long, 3" wide so by your math i have to have a 20" tall rise?
Some days i just get cloudy and confused....

[steve_g]

Only 15" if you start at 0... Maybe you can drop it into the indexer pit after cutting the first or second...
SG

[bobmoore]

How about a dedicated fixture for the drill press? Bob

[myxpykalix]

How about a dedicated fixture for the drill press? Bob
Did I say i wanted to do this the easy way? lol

Yes i have plenty Z depth in the indexer bay. I think i may need to make it into a 3d object with a 30 degree angle and place the holes accordingly and just use the toolpaths for the holes.

[donek]

The simplest solution to your problem is to cut dados at your required angle in a pair of 1X4s. Cut square pegs the size of the dados and laminate the two 1X4s together with the square pegs in the dados.

Or you could simply tilt the tilting table on your drill press (I have yet to see one that does not tilt) to the angle you require, clamp a fence to the table and begin drilling your holes. The best bit for this sort of thing is a paddle bit as the fine point will consistently drill where you put it.

[myxpykalix]

Sean,
He wants to be able to "flat pack" the kit where the dowels are not inserted. So what i need to do is cut 4 holes at 30 degrees in a 36" long 2x4.

Because he needs 30 sets of two on each order i wanted to automate it so i could make a jig, put a 2x4 in, press a button, cut the holes...done!

Besides that's why i paid 15K for my machine!

What i had thought about, if you visualize this...take a side view of stairsteps, and i would be cutting a hole in each top of the step representing 4 steps. That gives me the spacing and depth

Not sure why cutting 4 holes is so hard for me to figure out!!

[POPS 64]

Jack , there is a very simple solution unless you really want to do it on the bot . Take and cut a 6" piece of a 4" x 4" drill your hole thru it then cut your angle on back , then you can screw it or clamp it as you go . Jeff

[donek]

Sean,
He wants to be able to "flat pack" the kit where the dowels are not inserted. So what i need to do is cut 4 holes at 30 degrees in a 36" long 2x4.

Because he needs 30 sets of two on each order i wanted to automate it so i could make a jig, put a 2x4 in, press a button, cut the holes...done!

Besides that's why i paid 15K for my machine!

What i had thought about, if you visualize this...take a side view of stairsteps, and i would be cutting a hole in each top of the step representing 4 steps. That gives me the spacing and depth

Not sure why cutting 4 holes is so hard for me to figure out!!

I think you go to the original solution of dados in 1X4s, but use a ball end bit.

In reality, this is not a good use of your shopbot. CNC has changed the way we make things. If you must use of the CNC, the best approach would be to redesign the part to be made from a sheet of plywood such that it is one piece. In other words your dowels and supporting member are all the same part. In the long run, part reduction is always good, reducing assembly time. If it really must be a 2X4, I would suggest the old school approach as being the most effective in production. Use your shopbot to machine a jig that holds 3 drill bushings. The 2X4 is clamped to the jig with toggle clamps and an operator manually drills the holes with a hand drill. If you're not sure what a drill bushing is, it's those hardened steel tubes your drill bit is guided by on a Kreg jig. Any machining supplier like MSC sells them, or simply google to find a company that specializes in them.