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Thread: Walnut Pub Table

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Piedmont, SD

    Default Walnut Pub Table

    Pub Table:
    - Solid walnut base, legs, top
    - Patina'd copper inlay
    - Powder coated foot rail and apron (local metal fabricator)

    - Poplar stained to "compliment" this table and bar tops I just installed, as client wanted to go low dollar on these (very typical when it comes to seating). Client accepted my bid on a set of 12, I made 15 so I could have samples on hand. Bot did 90% of the joinery cuts, as I finally set things up for mortise/tenon work on end of the shopbot.

    Naturally, the bot did the saddle seats - remarkably simple to do these in V-Carve pro - just drew straight lines for vectors 3/16 apart and utilized the fluting tool path. .50 ball nose, depth of cut of .50" and a ramp setting at 100%, = a nice swept arc with some manageable ridges. Used a 2.5 x 8" pneumatic drum sander that made clean up incredibly fast.

    Kind of an odd contrast to have a highly customized table and low-budget seating, but they ended up with a decent compliment to the walnut, traditional joinery for a much stronger chair, and I was able to meet their short holiday deadline vs. waiting 6-8+ weeks for the imports.

    Really excites me to realize that the J.I.T. method of manufacturing can be a big key to success for the small shop. It's nice to be able to make that a part of my business strategy along side offering the highly customized pieces.

    This is why I took the plunge two years ago, and I'm extremely pleased with my big beautiful blue helper !

    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Delray Beach, FL



    They both look primo. For the few feet in a stool it is a shame he cheaped out on the materials but in a pub I expect that all will get that "Weathered" look pretty quick.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Kennebunkport, Maine


    Great work as always!
    Great blend of colors- melds nicely!
    Fluting IS a great tool to have in VCP arsenal, and with .5"BN pretty quick
    Good grain work!
    Stool design is really nice-almost a "oriental roof" feel to it.
    They certainly got their moneys worth, and a definite "Statement" when people enter(probably get a lot of comments/questions too).
    Scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 10

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Harbour Grace Newfoundland


    They look great but using polar I've tried polar natural .Get pictures set up at the pub.Finish did you use something special for the top ?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Jasper, TX


    Great Job! What kind of finish?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2012


    I don't usually say "That is gorgeous" because my taste leans totally to the polar opposite of what you did here, Jeff.
    So please don't take it lightly when I say that it's absolutely gorgeous.
    I'd have that in my house, and I really don't at all like the slabby minimalist look.
    It works perfectly together. You really hit it out of the park, my brother!!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Piedmont, SD


    Thanks guys!

    Finish on walnut table: General finishes Arm-R-Seal

    Fine Woodworking just published an article about wiping varnishes, and rated this product tops. Architect spec'd "oiled walnut" for the bar tops. I've got a home brew Sam Maloof mix that I love to use on turned pieces. It better fits the definition of an oiled finish due to the high ratios of linseed and tung oils in the mix, but decided I'd better go with a commercial product to simplify follow up maintenance that's inevitable for a bar top.

    Loved the Arm-R-Seal on small pieces I've recently done, as it dried fairly fast, leveled out nicely and has a unique buttery-satin "glow" to it when wiped on.

    HOWEVER - 9' section of bar was miserable. Could not get that stuff spread fast enough - was flashing off too quickly, becoming gooey, causing uneven spots and streaks when applied as directed. A large majority leveled out better than expected, but still was not up to par without wet sanding and rubbing out with steel wool. Can has disclaimer for this issue, stating if you get sheen streaks, it's your fault for "pressing too hard".

    Remedy : just spray final coat on large surfaces, but kind of defeats the whole concept of reaching for a hand-applied finish.

    Stools: Mix of trans-tint dyes blended into lacquer, as done typically in the factories.(hey, I was on a tight budget here!)
    Sprayed on a knock-down glaze that rapidly dries to a chalky consistency, rubbed back with scotch brite non-abrasive pad, then locked in with the next lacquer coat. This blackened the open pores, helping make a more convincing blend with the walnut, as well as settling into the light distress marks.


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