Zeroing out XY and Quick Jig for SB Desktop

[mmak2916]

I am a new owner to SB desktop and I have some questions after reading the documents and watching the video quick start guides.

1. Is there a way to zero out the X and Y axis to the actual material that I'm cutting on? From my understanding, zeroing out the X/Y axis only moves it to the home position programmed to the SB desktop and not to the material, correct me if I'm wrong.
   
2. In this video "How to make a Quick Jig" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNCD...w0HHpaTiaNMpKn) it demonstrates and suggests that there are dowels/jigs that come included with the machine. However, I don't see them included nor mentioned in the Quick Start guide booklet. I found a file on my computer "03 Quick Jig Dowel Holes"... Does this jig not come with the machine anymore or is it an additional purchase?

Thanks!

[Simops]

Margaret.....you are talking about Z zeroing to the material...correct?
I have a Buddy not desktop but believe it is the same.....you zero either to material top or table bed (depending how you specified that in your drawing setup). You should have got a Z zeroing plate that you put down on the bed or material and a clip that you clip to your router or spindle......then use the C2 routine (cuts drop down menu as well) to Zero out.
There are other ways to do it as well but the plate is most commonly used.
The dowel pegs....not sure but I use dowels which double sided cutting.
Does this answer your query?

Cheers

[mmak2916]

Hi Michael,

Not quite... I meant to zero out the X and Y axis. For example, if I have an exact material sized at 24" x 5", how do I tell the CNC to start cutting it at the very edge of that material? Since the actual material would be offset due to the extra space the jigs take up on the edges. Does that make sense?

Regarding the dowel and jig, I'm curious as to if they actually come with the machine or not. Perhaps that's a question for ShopBot...

Thanks!

[kubotaman]

Margaret, If I understand you correctly you will do as follows. Hit the "K" key which will give you the keys to move the spindle or router to where you want it to go. You push on the arrows with the mouse or arrow keys on the keyboard. You will be able to command the spindle or router where to go as far as your material goes. Place the bit, pointed v bit works great, where you want your "second home". When you get it where you want your new home to be you can "Zero" out the X and Y positions. To do that just type on the keyboard Z2, both axis will now be at zero or type ZX or ZY. You now have reset your new home position. Remember there are two homes. One for the machine and one for the material. Before zeroing out the X or Y position it is very wise to write down both co-ordinates before zeroing. That way you can go back to the exact position should something go wrong.

[curtiss]

I assume the work material is secure in the correct position.

From there, you could attach a piece of thin aluminum foil to the clip and bend it over the x edge of the material.

Move the bit to the foil (from the negative side) until it touches. zero x.


Repeat with the foil on the y side. zero the y.

Assuming you are using a 1/4 inch bit

You would then have to raise the bit up and move it to .125 .125 zero xy

That should put you over the corner of the work material.

[Kyle Stapleton]

If your corner jig is an L shape that is 1.5" thick (like in the quick start file). All you have to do is c3 to go to 0,0 after that move y and x to 1.5 (mx,1.5 my,1.5) then hit z2.
Now yo are zeroed at the corner of the jig.

As far as the dowl jig they just give you the file and you cut it yourself. It works ok but you will soon find you hate it amd make one that fits your needs better.

[scottp55]

Margaret, They stopped shipping the "Quick Jig and starter projects" with new Desktops about the time I bought mine(august 2013).
So Kyle is correct in that you'll have to cut your own. Do you have "Shopbot quick jig wedges" file, should be in same folder as "shopbot quick jig dowel holes 6".
Kyle is also correct in that you lose 1.5" of your cutting area with the factory spoilboard. Also wedges and dowels by themselves are great to start, IF material has 90 degree edges, but CAN lift material, and in MDF dowels and holes round over eventually.
Easiest way(if using "quick jig") is to draw your project with lower left corner of material in VCarvePro at 1.5,1.5. If file is drawn at 0,0 and you don't dare change it yet, then it's also very easy to C3, M2(Move 2 axis) 1.5,1.5 (Quick jig measurement) and then right click a radio button and that will set that spot. Then Z2 (zero 2 axis X,Y) and 0,0 will now be for the quick jig.
C3 will always bring you back to 0,0 (left bottom of factory spoilboard), press preset radio button you set, and entering Z2, and now you're set for quick jig cutting.
Good idea to personalize spoilboard for your needs. For full cutting size and easy clamping HIGHLY recommend Bill Youngs spoilboard or one of the several variations people are using on this thread. Good luck
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/sho...esktop+jigging

[mmak2916]

Questions answered, thank you for all the help!