Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: Cutting edge profile

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Richland Center, WI
    Posts
    30

    Default Cutting edge profile

    Hello,
    First time posting here. Just recently acquired a used ShopBot and am presently working on getting it set up. This forum has certainly been of great help in the steep learning curve. Thanks to all.

    Anyway, I am trying to figure out a way to cut a edge profile similar to the attached picture. The profile would place a long round-over on the top and bottom edge of the board. The bit shown would enable me to cut the profile in two passes and would work, but I have a 2 HP spindle and can't run the 3/4 shank.

    I was thinking that I would cut the top side, and flip the piece over in the same exact position and route the bottom with same profile. If need be, i could cut this out the shape with a mill bit and then apply the profile. I was hoping to cut the profile and the final shape of the board at the same time.

    So, I would appreciate some ideas/tips/advice on
    1. Any router bits that could cut the profile desired.
    2. Techniques/methods to index and cut top and bottom pieces.

    I could use some ideas on how to get the piece lined up when flipping it over. I am planning on have some kind of vacuum fixture to hold it in place.

    Hopefully this all makes sense. I am basically trying to cut out a cutting board and apply a nice tapered rounded edge.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Surrey, UK
    Posts
    1,271

    Default

    To be honest it would be far easier and faster to apply the edge using a router table.

    If you're using VCarve or Aspire there are a couple of tutorials/projects that give ideas on two sided machining.

    http://support.vectric.com/tut-aspire-3d-techniques
    http://www.vectric.com/cool-stuff/pr...ool-cubes.html
    The answers to a lot of questions can be found at http://www.shopbottools.com/ShopBotDocs/ or http://support.vectric.com/

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Richland Center, WI
    Posts
    30

    Default

    I am sure I underestimate the difficulty of this. I have not even cut out my first piece yet. To start with, I will start with the cutouts and do the shaping on router.

    My ultimate goal is to try and do as much of this on the CNC for repeat-ablity and consistency. I am shaping bird's-eye maple and the table router tends to tear and sometimes causes less then ideal results. I am hoping that I can figure out a routine on the CNC that will give me more predictable results. This I hope to achieve using climb cutting and less chatter introduced by human handling.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
    Posts
    4,419

    Default

    Wayne, Will the finished blank have a rectangular (90 degree) edge on at least 3 sides to reference off of (flipping)? Rounded corners don't make a difference for what I'm thinking.
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Richland Center, WI
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Attached is what I have in mind. The blank(in red) would have 3 index holes drilled by cnc as the first step. The index holes are shown in red.

    After the index holes are drilled, I was thinking I could:
    1. Use a 1/2 mill bit to cut the profile to half the material thickness.
    2. Use profile round-over bit and follow same path as step 1 on top surface.
    3. Flip piece and repeat steps 1 and 2.

    This would all be sitting on a vacuum fixture with pins aligning the blank to the index holes.

    I could be all backwards on this...like I said, I haven't cut my first piece yet.
    wayne
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Cleveland TN
    Posts
    369

    Default

    Wayne,

    As long as the index holes are exact from left to right you would be good to flip it that way. Another way to it is to have one side and bottom against a fence of some sort so you could filp and secure it again. Either would work, I have done both. I have also profiled edges and the only thing to get right is your depth. Let us know how it works out.

    Joe
    2005 PRT Alpha 48x96
    2013 Colombo 3hp spindle
    Indexer (converted lathe)
    Aspire 9.0

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Sanford NC
    Posts
    44

    Default

    wayne,
    i cut a similar edge profile but much thinner material on a regular basis using a raised jig just made slightly smaller than piece being cut (actually larger than piece being cut but a trough is cut for bit to run in in the jig)
    i cut top and bottom at same time with 1 bit
    i use alignments built into the jig to locate part then the alignments hinge out of the way for cutting

    you can get shaper type cutters made to your profile with 1/2" shafts

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Richland Center, WI
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Randy,
    Thanks for the info. Just a couple clarifications. You cut the part to size first and then place it on your raised jig for profiling? Is your raised jig setup to vacuum hold down? I assume you just have a gasket around the jig with a vacuum hole in the middle sucking down the piece being profiled.

    Do you know where I might be able to have a custom shaper cutter made. Do you have an approximate cost for this?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    210

    Default custom cutters

    Here is a company that is good to work with and makes custom cutters. Cost you will have to call them and find out too many variables unknown. :

    http://www.ballewsawandtool.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Sanford NC
    Posts
    44

    Default

    wayne
    i cut approx 1/16" oversize and let the edge profile bit clean it up to exact size
    my jig is just lightweight mdf with vac pulling strait thru from normal vac table
    no special gaskets or anything
    i do have edges and trough area sealed to prevent unnessary vac loss and also cover any area of regular table zone that might cause vac loss if needed

    i use commercial type ball bearing hinges for allignments and then just fold them back before cutting
    (i have only forgotten about the hinges 1 time in thousands of parts
    trashed a bit and the part but actually cut the hinge in to)

    also watch out when zeroing or returning home, etc. to make sure your safe z clears the hinges. probably is a safer way than the steel hinges but it is simple and works for me

    i cut 2'x4' and 2'x3' down to about 6"x8" with this setup regularly
    also circles and ovals sometimes

Similar Threads

  1. Edge profile bits
    By Keith Larrett in forum Techniques for Cutting, Drilling, Machining
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 01-04-2017, 01:23 PM
  2. Profile cutting advice
    By christiangray3 in forum ShopBotter Message Board
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 10-28-2016, 09:56 AM
  3. Cutting Profile not quite right...
    By bnguyen in forum ShopBotter Message Board
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 01-27-2015, 05:03 PM
  4. Wavy edge on some Profile cuts?
    By sam in forum Sign Making
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 01-07-2009, 01:30 PM
  5. Never ending edge profile
    By aquiloboats in forum Archives2005
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-22-2005, 11:23 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •