DIY Vacuum Box

[kenkelsey]

Joe: Regarding the gaskets. I did stick them on the bottom on the motors, but my motors do not mount on wood; they are suspended from the 3 mounting points on the motor. I realized with your latest pic that you placed the motors on the wood mount and used long bolts to hold them down. I stuck the motors through a support board with two 5.75 inch holes cut into it. If you look back at my Sketchup design again, I think you will see what I mean.

Today, I assembled the 3 inch manifold and the six 2 inch PVC valves. Also reworked the vac box to have one 3 inch vac line. I am piped from the vac box to the manifold. I am ready to remove the current spoil board and machine the plenum into the MDF layer that is below the spoil board, and above the 3/4 plywood board. Then, I will just need to do the under table piping and bring the 2 inch PVC up through the plywood layer and the MDF Plenum. Your pictures and comments helped in a big way. Thanks again.

[barrowj]

Ken,

I went back and looked at your first pic and see what you are talking about with the mounting of the motors. I haven't used mine enough but can state for sure that the slightest amount of leakage can really hurt the amount of vacuum. I question the mounting for 2 reasons, heat build up (which I can tell you is hot) and if you will be losing any vacuum due to not having a gasket. I can't answer any of these questions reliably but can say that when i put my box together, I failed to silicone the small vacuum area front and back boards and that even though every thing was screwed down tight I still lost most of the vacuum before it ever reached the table. I went back and completely sealed every joint in that small chamber and I was then getting 8" of vacuum.

Hope this helps,

Joe

[kenkelsey]

Good morning Joe. I did seal the box with silicone, but I did not apply around the motors where they pass through the support board. It is a pretty tight fit. I do seem to have a lot of vacuum at the port. Today I will finish the piping up to and through the manifold. Followed your advice to use 3 inch pvc.

I have only had the motors running for a few minutes and the box does heat up quickly.

I looked at ebay for a vac gauge. Do I just tap in into the first pipe going to the first port on the table? When you say 8 inches is this with one port open with something covering that zone of the table?

[barrowj]

Ken, you can get the vacuum guage and a 2" x "2" x 1/2" tee from there also, here are the links to what I got.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[David Iannone]

Ken,
I put my vac gauge in the PVC before all my zone valves. Also, an idea I followed from the forum was to get any outdoor type thermometer that has the wire with temp sensor at end. Then epoxy/DS tape it to the metal can of one motor and bring the lead out of box so you can monitor temp. From what I understand 200 degrees is redlining the motors, but about 130 degrees is where most say they run. Don't forget to add a way to bleed air into the system. The pic Joe showed is a nice valve. The little airflow you give the motors helps keep them cool.

Joe,
Glad to see you are making good progress. I didn't seal or glue my box.....sounds like I will need to take apart and do that. Not to ask a stupid question, but what kind of silicone did you use? I remember reading a while back about not using certain types to seal the inside of the box. I assume this is cause of the heat build up?

Dave

[barrowj]

Ken,

I bought my valve at amazon along with the filters:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dave, I used the GE Waterproof Clear from HP, white with blue labeling.

Yes, you need to seal the vacuum chamber real good.

Joe

[David Iannone]

Ken,
Something like this is what I used.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/AcuRite-D...91A3/100654924

Joe,
Thanks, gonna try to finish mine up by Tuesday. Will report results.

Dave

[kenkelsey]

Joe, Dave, keep those tips coming. Temp gauge is a great idea. I have really noticed the heat with just a few minutes of running.

On the vac gauge, I need to think how to add this. I've already cut and glued the pipe for most of the fittings. I think the only line that I could add the 2 inch pipe with the 1/2 nipple would be my last zone (far right of the table).

I rough cut all of my under table pvc piping today and glued up to and including the pvc valves. Next steps for me will be to remove my current spoil board, cut the plenum, bore out the holes through the table and attach the pipe.

Question: Are any filters used for the vac box? We are not really vacuuming anything into the box, but not sure if I need a filter anywhere on the vacuum side of the motors?

Regarding the recommendation to vent the box, are you suggesting that I drill a hole into the vac box plenum area? I believe LH recommends a 1/4 hole.

Tried to upload progress pics from my phone, but got a failed to load message?

[kenkelsey]

The Pics after I resized 620 by 280

[David Iannone]

In line filter yes, make one using a shopvac filter from depot. John Coryat designed a cool in line filter (IMO) that I am modeling mine after, but have not yet finished.

All this work we are doing to our tables to provide high power vac hold down, so why not put a filter at the source right? as long as it doesn't restrict flow. I am only using what other have shared here and adapting to MY situation.

I would not drill the holes suggested by lighthouse, but simply insert a valve as Joe did that you can open as much as you like for "venting/bleeding"
I did the same as Joe, but I used a big 2" PVC ball valve and it looks bulky.....but will work.

The good thing about PVC is a battery sawzaw, some couplings, pvc glue and time can fix almost anything.

Dave