anyone know where I can get the cross hair laser alignment sight to hook up to my router?
anyone know where I can get the cross hair laser alignment sight to hook up to my router?
Davo, Don't have myself, and others may chime in, but here's a little stuff to read with your coffee
Hope there's something you can use...I just glanced at Joe's and a few others.
scott
https://www.google.com/search?q=let%...=0CCkQrQIoBDAA
scott P.
2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 12.0*
Maine
thanks, i found exactly what i was looking for in one of those links, but the items not available now... http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/152...ttachment.aspx
looks similar to the handibot one, i wonder if the handibot would fit my router
this one is a good fall back option, http://www.lasercenteredgefinder.com/video.html
I made one myself with some laser modules from any number of websites. I ordered from www.dx.com (dealextreme). They are about $4 each for a cross hair style or line style. Downside is that the parts ship from China and take about a month to get here sometimes.
Add a cheap battery pack to supply the required voltage and make a small mount.
Davo, Also found this thread on Vectric forum, still old...But...
http://forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2769
scott P.
2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 12.0*
Maine
This is not inexpensive, but it is a precision piece of equipment
http://www.lasercenteredgefinder.com/main.html
I bought a cheap $2.00 cross hair laser unit and mounted it beside the spindle hooked up to the number three output switch and 5 volt from the controller. I cut a cross with a v bit and moved the laser over to focus on the cross and wrote down the numbers and made a custom file with the offset on it. Now I just turn it on move the laser to where I want to zero and once there hit my custom file and it zeros my spindle to that spot. When I mounted it I mounted it to the side of the z that does not go up and down. that way it is always in the same spot.
I have one of the laser units Bob mentioned. It's a nice piece of equipment but in general, a laser spot is just too big to be used effectively if you need really tight control of tolerances. I've found that instead, a calibrated carbide blank is far more effective. A calibrated carbide blank is essentially an end mill that has no flutes. It's one solid piece of metal of exacting dimensions (1/8, 1/4 or 1/2") that can be used to precisely align materials on the table. They are easier to use than the laser too. Let's say you have a 1/4" blank. To set material on the table at exactly 12", move to 11 7/8" (1/4 div by 2=1/8, 12" - 1/8"= 11 7/8") and the edge of the blank will be at exactly 12". Align your material to that location and it will be registered exactly. Move the car to another (say jog the Y axis if you're measuring the X) to set the material square in the machine.
I find this to be about the most precise way of registering.
($20 for a 6"x1/4" blank http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/48611255)
ShopBot Details:
2013 PRS 96x60x12 (Centroid upgrade)
4hp Spindle
12" indexer
Aspire
Rhino
Fusion 360
Ferrari 360
Prusa MK3S+
Prusa XL multi-tool
I have the one that Bob refers to. I use it on almost every project. I am a a pig when it comes to wasting wood. Typically i cut an 17 inch tall plaque out of a 18 inch piece of wood and knowing the center can be important. Plus once i do my C3 command, its gets me right back on the center of my work piece. You can get cheap replacement batteries to have a back up's.
Don't know if you saw this or not. https://handibot.com/blog/2014/08/pr...t-laser-sight/
Parts suppliers and cut files provided. Should easily be able to adapt it as needed.
Scott