Multipass Cut Through - Not Retracing in the same spot.

[TNWALKINGHORSE]

What kind of noise are you hearing in that axis? Is it a herky-jerky spasmic kind of thing? A grinding sound? What are you hearing? It should sound fairly smooth and rhythmic... should not sound rough or aggressive....

I just did another cut. The "Y" axis will stutter/hesitate and pause during start and stop movement. The noise is more of a grinding noise. however, the the X and z axis is very smooth.

[Brady Watson]

Sounds like a beat driver. Turn control box off & wait for a FULL 5 min. Then unplug the Y from the box. Plug it into the A spot. Open up SB3 & run the VI command. Change channel 4 to be Y instead of A. See if the noise goes away.

-B

[MogulTx]

Try what Brady Said. Swap your Y for your A driver. Jog and run the A driver and Y axis stepper and see if you get better results. If it is still problematic, you have one of two things going on ( AFAIK) - and they are: (1) bad wire / connector/connection or (2) a bad stepper motor. If you do, and things are cleared up, you are looking at one of three things (1) Bad zener diode on the Y driver (2) bad wire on Y axis (3) a bad Stepper motor.

Do this level of sleuthing and it should lead you fairly directly to your solution....

[TNWALKINGHORSE]

UPDATE: So my A port is already being used by the "X" port (I believe), since the original X had a blown port. So I swapped the "X" (A) and "Y" port and the noise is following the port, not the axis. So I guess I have a bad driver. I guess this is why I am getting bad cuts. I just received 10 driver chips from China with the same part number. So I guess it is soldering time? If this doesn't work, then I guess it's 4G time. Would the diode be bad if the chip is blown or not necessarily?

[MogulTx]

TN

I think the "chips" you are talking about must be the Zener diodes. Make note of the location ( end to end) of the colored bands on the diode before uninstalling. Solder the new one in in the same direction as the old. It is a directional voltage blocking device... so surely there is a need to maintain directionality to it....

Now: You say the noise is following the port not the axis, so that eliminates your steppers and your control cables.... so yes... you are down to driver and diodes, AFAIK. It should be a ten minute fix. While you have the board out, you may as well get your original X corrected, too.

Sometimes blown diodes occur because someone rolled the motors manually while they are engaged in their rack. This drives the stepper motor, which allows it to create electricity and send it back the wrong direction. This can blow the diode. It is possible to blow the old drivers this way, too. Hopefully it will just be a diode issue. ( Or two!)

Best of luck. Report back when you have installed the new diodes and let us know if you have cured your problem!!

Monty

[TNWALKINGHORSE]

Few more questions...I will start with the diodes....easier...., if that's what it may be...which diodes are they? Also, there are 2 stepper motor drivers per channel. So a port is bad (noisy)...would it be the driver closest to the edge of the board or the one towards the middle? P.S. I received 10 new 39555SBT chips in the mail today.




Thanks! -Matt

[donek]

I just replaced the chips on a y-axis yesterday. I bought sockets with the chips though so it's easy to swap them out after repairing. After soldering I found a bad trace which may have been the culprit. It wasn't blown, but seemed to be tearing off the board at the pin.

I find desoldering to be the biggest challenge. I've used desoldering wick and a suction bulb. Neither does an adequate job. The only thing that ever works for me is to hold a blow gun against the board on the chip side, melt the solder and then hit it with a blast of air. Maybe somebody else has a better solution.

[TNWALKINGHORSE]

I just replaced the chips on a y-axis yesterday. I bought sockets with the chips though so it's easy to swap them out after repairing. After soldering I found a bad trace which may have been the culprit. It wasn't blown, but seemed to be tearing off the board at the pin.

I find desoldering to be the biggest challenge. I've used desoldering wick and a suction bulb. Neither does an adequate job. The only thing that ever works for me is to hold a blow gun against the board on the chip side, melt the solder and then hit it with a blast of air. Maybe somebody else has a better solution.

....So did you wind replacing both driver chips for each channel or just 1. I am not sure if 2 blow per channel or just one?

[MogulTx]

TN

See the close up pic that shows your X2 driver output area (diodes)? See the browned spot on the board by that one diode? Replace that Diode.


I replaced mine one at a time. ( I can't recall if I later went ahead and replaced both for each driver output section. Since they are so cheap, it would make sense, but if you replace one and it works... it CAN fall under the old adage of "if it ain't broke (anymore), then don't "fix" it... you have to make that choice. But I would start with the obvious and move toward the less obvious solutions. You have the diodes, so start with the worst looking and go from there.)

Monty

[MogulTx]

Sorry. That may be your Y ...

And there is a little discoloration in the traces just up from it. That may be dust/dirt.... don't know. You will have to look close. And look from the underside to see if it shows through as being heated.

And I do not assume that it is chipsets. I believe it is diodes ( the structures closest to the output plugs where you attach you WAGO connectors.) I COULD be wrong, but checking it out is nearly cost free and they are NOT difficult to de-solder or re-solder.