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Thread: V-Inlay Bit and Toolpath Help Needed

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Wilkesboro, NC
    Posts
    108

    Default V-Inlay Bit and Toolpath Help Needed

    OK, I know this topic has been addressed a few times before, but my Google-fu is not working for me.

    At Christmas I tried to make some v-inlay cutting boards for the family. The bits I used were either dull or didn't have a fine point. Between using the wrong angle toolpath, a dull bit, slack in one of the axii's on the Budddy, and other issues, I put them on the backburner. It's now time to figure this problem out.

    I followed the tutorial for the V-Inlay and I've done it before with perfect results. This time, no luck and I can't quite seem to figure out the problem. One problem I'm having is with the inlay material bottoming out before the shoulders pull up tight. Also I'm not happy with the specific Freud bit I used. I think I fixed the play in the table driver.

    If anyone could tell me what bit has given them good results I'd appreciate it, and I'd love specific tool path depth settings.

    Thanks,
    Blaine

    Do you think this is appropriate for a cutting board?

    Inlay.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    1,010

    Default

    Just knock off the high points on the male plug on your belt sander and all will work perfectly. Unbelivably I use Rocklers pretty cheap vee bits. Get a long life from them.
    Buddy BT48 with 6' power stick
    2.2 HSD Spindle
    Aspire 9.5
    6" ShopBot Indexer

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
    Posts
    4,420

    Default

    Good luck with these settings and an Onsrud 60 degree 37-01(D type engraving bit not POSITIVE of number as not in shop).
    Ignore the overcautious ramp, old file and would probably go .5" now.
    Need to get back into it when I get more time
    Were both materials surfaced on the machine before cutting?
    scott
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by scottp55; 04-17-2015 at 07:42 AM.
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Brookline, New Hampshire
    Posts
    434

    Default

    The v inlay process was designed in a way that the female board and the male inlay backing will not touch each other even when a great deal of force is applied. This was done to give maximum force to wedging the male inlay into the female pocket. It will not hurt to knock down the high points on the male inlay but don't do that to the fine detail. I usually cut both parts twice to get rid of "fuzzies".

    Paul Z

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Wilkesboro, NC
    Posts
    108

    Default

    Thanks for the tips guys. Scott that looks like a good bit, I'll give it a try along with the settings.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
    Posts
    4,420

    Default

    Only 1 flute, so was running at 17-18K on the Male.
    I listened to Paul and cut twice, but no ramp and faster everything on second pass.
    I used bamboo skewer to get last fuzzies out if any. Worked well.
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

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