Hi,
I was wondering if anyone has been cutting the pink foam boards you can get at the big box stores lately. If so how has it been cutting for you. I have a couple of projects I would like to try in the pink foam since is so cheap.
Thanks
Hi,
I was wondering if anyone has been cutting the pink foam boards you can get at the big box stores lately. If so how has it been cutting for you. I have a couple of projects I would like to try in the pink foam since is so cheap.
Thanks
Ron Moorehead
R&S Design
ShopBot PRS Aphla 48 by 96
Laserpro Explorer 30 watt
Universal Laser 50 watt
3D printer
Works fine there is a many threads (lot of good stuff) on the forum about it.
Main thing is do not climb cut it.
Kyle Stapleton
River Falls Renaissance Academy
Math/Technology Education Teacher
PRS Alpha 96x60 2.2 hp spindle, Double Air drills, 6" indexer, Fein 5 zone vac table
Desktop w/spindle
Potter Pen
Aspire 8.5, Creo 3.0
Plus you can't let a non cutting part of the bit rub on it. so have full length flutes and 18k rpms and if you want a really clean edge cut 2 ips. you can cut faster with a ltitle tearout on the edges.
2012-10-19_18-08-19_422.jpg
Here is a wine bottle I cut out of pink foam.
I used 1/2" round nose bit at 16000rpm and 8ips
I use pink foam to test my 3D files. You don't ruin bits or expensive wood
Rick
Make sure your machine is well grounded to eliminate static
Rick
If you are cutting a large project keep an eye on your pinion gears it can build up on them and the rack.
It is great for prototyping
I use it, I love it for prototyping. There are seams cut into some of the foam to facilitate snapping apart and fitting between studs. If your designs allow try to keep it between the lines. If not just get the glue out.
"Once a person moves away from the computer and CNC some of the most important work begins." ~Joe Crumley
I love the photos of the gears and wine bottle, how are you guys finishing the foam? The finish looks great.
Ron Moorehead
R&S Design
ShopBot PRS Aphla 48 by 96
Laserpro Explorer 30 watt
Universal Laser 50 watt
3D printer
Ron I finished mine with first a torch carefully applied to create the pitting then the same mixture I use for the base stain for my carvings, brown concrete pigment powder mixed with acrylic. the rust effect was from my rust cleaning solution a bucket white vinegar I put rusty tools I find to clean up, the resulting rust vinegar was sprayed on after a few coats and thoroughly dry put some clear acrylic to bind it on.
Or you can buy modern masters metal effects iron paint and skip all the steps, the smart thing to do.