Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 52

Thread: Aspire and 2 rail sweep for fingerboard

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    111

    Default

    We do inlay for a living, mostly in the banjo community. It usually takes a .024 bit for fret slots and while it can be done flat, we would like to prebend the wire and follow the curvature of the board

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Garland Tx
    Posts
    2,227

    Default

    Following the curvature is no problem when done as Brady suggested
    SG
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Cleveland TN
    Posts
    347

    Default

    Andrew,

    I never seem to be able to view your files on Photobucket, any ideas. I seem to spin forever then just blank.

    Joe
    2005 PRT Alpha 48x96
    2013 Colombo 3hp spindle
    Indexer (converted lathe)
    Aspire 9.0

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    iBILD Solutions - Southern NJ
    Posts
    7,931

    Default

    FYI - most fretboards have the metal put in straight without curvature - on guitars anyway. So, projecting onto 3D surface is only required if you need the .023" bit to follow the curvature of the neck. Not sure how banjos are done, but most guitars go in straight.

    -B
    High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    111

    Default

    Brady the problem with that is the bits only cut so deep. The fret slots need to be .090 on a banjo as standard. With a 8 radius it will hit in the middle of the board and by the time it hits the sides its already deep in the middle. by the time you go .090 deep on the edge it makes it like an accordion. If you start with a board that's .200 it leaves .160 at the last fret in thickness, you then have a slot .090 deep...that's leaves .050 and that's not much so the more meat I can leave in the middle the better

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    111

    Default re

    Brady it worked just as you said, thanks so much...

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Timmins, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,825

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Brady Watson View Post
    FYI - most fretboards have the metal put in straight without curvature - on guitars anyway. So, projecting onto 3D surface is only required if you need the .023" bit to follow the curvature of the neck. Not sure how banjos are done, but most guitars go in straight.

    -B
    The only guitars with a flat board are classical. All others (acoustic or electric, bass guitars etc) have varying radii generally from 9" to 12"

    Frets of course have to be curved to follow the curve of the board. Most companies run their wire through a bender that matches the boards radius.

    In most commercial slotting operations, a .023" saw blade just cuts a straight slot through the board. The fret slot is deeper than the fret tang at the middle, but that usually gets filled with glue anyhow.

    If you really need the slots cut the same depth as the tang than you can certainly do so as stated.

    Ive made a whole lot of fretboards over the years for various guitars - but I have a small table saw set up with a slotting blade and do it the old way (not CNC). I radius by sanding, although I do machine contoured radius blocks on the CNC router. Im not production, but I used to make 4 to 6 custom guitars a year.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    111

    Default

    I still don't have it. Its cutting a compound radius but its not the correct one. I make my two rails and then click on both radius lines I have drawn. then it runs but its not right. how do I make sure the one radius which is 7, is at one end and 12 on the other?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    111

    Default

    I noticed when I pick my radius like the tutorial says then I can change it without changing it so to speak.
    Scale to exact height changes the radius and then the "combine with the current shape" has two options...merge or add
    that changes the radius to.....not for sure what to do?

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    iBILD Solutions - Southern NJ
    Posts
    7,931

    Default

    Your settings should look like the attached pic. Don't scale height or width. Make sure your cross section vectors are already the same width as the rails and height you want them to be in Z.

    After selecting the rails, click on the first cross section and assign it to the top rail starting point. Then the 2nd section and the top rail end point. Hit apply to create the component. This will give you a sweep that starts with the first cross section & ends with the 2nd.

    Add or Merge - doesn't matter if there is nothing else on the screen. Default is add.

    -B
    Attached Images Attached Images
    High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 20
    Last Post: 03-13-2015, 01:46 PM
  2. Two rail sweep?
    By jim shula in forum ShopBotter Message Board
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 03-06-2014, 08:31 PM
  3. One rail sweep in Aspire?
    By Robert Rickard in forum Aspire
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 06-04-2013, 10:58 AM
  4. Two rail sweep in Aspire
    By feinddj in forum Aspire
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11-19-2009, 04:05 PM
  5. Aspire Two Rail Sweep for Basket Weave Pattern
    By cabindoors in forum Aspire
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-10-2009, 11:13 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •