HDU Question: Hard Coat & Hardware

[RossMosh]

I'm honestly open for suggestions. I figured with the cross beam taking the weight and the aluminum brackets along the side and bottom, it should keep it from getting any real warp, especially considering it may only see 20 hours of outdoor time a week.

[RossMosh]

Once again experience wins over guessing. I got the piece of HDU in today to start working on the project over the weekend. It just isn't as rigid as I had hoped. Anything I do to get the HDU to work will end up more expensive and heavier than PVC so I went ahead and ordered a piece of 1" Komacel.

I'm still a little concerned about the weight. PVC will end up at about 60lbs vs 45lbs for the HDU (as I had designed). Obviously 60lbs isn't ridiculously heavy but I may try to re-imagine the brackets so that the sign is easier to put on the frame. With HDU I was afraid to do a cleat setup. With the PVC, since I can screw/glue, I think I'll go with a cleat setup which will be a lot easier than sliding the sign in and may reduce the weight a few pounds.

[RossMosh]

Hopefully I can get a little help.

This sign was 90% done. Go to peel the mask on the small panel and the MM gold peels right up. Oof. Kick in the chest. Realize the yellow paint I picked and the MM doesn't play nicely. Read the directions again and I clearly chose the wrong yellow paint.

So I literally peel up all the gold paint (takes no time at all) on the main panel and the other small, sand the yellow down and prime over it with PPG primer which is designed for going over glossy surfaces. Let it dry. 3 coats of MM waiting 45-60 mins (recommended is 30). Let it dry. Time to think about peeling it up again and I just don't trust the MM not to pull up. Under the taping instructions, it clearly says the paint doesn't really grab right away. By right away, they weren't exactly specific and when I called they said at least 24 hours but wait 3-5 days before shipping. They recommend cutting around taped edges so you don't pull up the MM.

Is my only option to go around with an X-acto and cut the edge of every letter so I don't run into trouble? If so, why would anyone want to use MM on a V-carved sign? I figure between the main panel and smaller panel, it will take me several hours to carefully go around each letter, dingbat, and symbol. I'll chalk it up to my inexperience as people have been using this stuff for years, but I know I'll never buy or use it again on a project like this.

[joe]

Ross,

I visit this forum every once in a while. It's sometimes painful to see troubles like you are having. Perhaps you should give me a call to discuss some of your options. This business of making signs requires lost of experience which isn't appreciated as it should be.

Joe
www.normansignco.com

[bleeth]

Regardless of what I have to say I suggest strongly you take Joe up on his offer to help by calling him.

I can tell you that long ago one of the services I offered clients was painting graphics on their walls. These were interior and at the time they were a hot ticket item. All went well until we had to work on a wall that had a yellow base color which, like all the other jobs we did, we applied. In this case though, we had massive problems with the fineline tape pulling the paint. Cutting was the only solution. What a nightmare! It was a big wall and since much of the graphic was curves it was very painstaking. I learned then that the pigment in yellow makes paint act differently than other colors. (Poor bonding and longer cure) A lesson I have never forgotten. I would imagine that there are other options assuming one used the correct paints and allowed sufficient curing time. Cure time is a super important item in sign work. Many people I know double manufacturers recommendations to play it safe.