I am looking for something I can use to fill a V-carved design that is tinted - I want to be able to sand it flush with the piece. This a design carved in beer flight paddles...Any suggestions? Thank you
Dick
I am looking for something I can use to fill a V-carved design that is tinted - I want to be able to sand it flush with the piece. This a design carved in beer flight paddles...Any suggestions? Thank you
Dick
Dick
Aspire 10.5
Epoxy is a good choice. Google "dyed wood epoxy". West system has a doc on it as well. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/adding-pigments-to-epoxy/
The biggest pain about it is the little bubbles you get in the surface as it cures requiring additional filling. You
can minimize this by passing a heat gun over it. Don't use fast set epoxy. Give yourself some time to work and slow set bubbles less.
Also check out the Inlace site. http://www.inlaceonline.com/
...and do it preferably in the A/C to minimize humidity...which can cause epoxy blush.
-B
High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com
I've done tinted epoxy filler in many v-carvings. Like Brady says, make sure you have a good climate.
Also, have a handheld propane torch available. You use it to remove bubbles, which will appear as the epoxy dries. Also, when you mix the epoxy, mix it very slowly so you don't introduce bubbles into the mix. If you go to West Marine website they have videos on how to use the propane torch. I would HIGHLY suggests practicing with the torch before you use it on a production project. It can be tricky and it is easy to scorch the epoxy.
Don
Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks, LLC
www.dlwoodworks.com
***********************************
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece; But to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, bank accounts empty, credit cards maxed out, defiantly shouting "Geronimo"!
If you make something idiot proof, all they do is create a better idiot.
Although I have not done it personally I have been told a heat gun will work and is safer/easier than a torch.
I tried a heat gun and it doesn't get hot enough. I've got one of the Milwaukee commercial heat guns (works great for edgebanding). You need a high blast of heat for .5 to 1 second at most.
I found the heat gun tended to scorch the epoxy because you had to focus it to long. If you do the torch right, it is safe and the results are much better.
Don
Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks, LLC
www.dlwoodworks.com
***********************************
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece; But to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, bank accounts empty, credit cards maxed out, defiantly shouting "Geronimo"!
If you make something idiot proof, all they do is create a better idiot.
Thanks for the input Don. I'll file that bit if info away.
You are most welcome.
Off topic.....
Did I see a recent post that you are coming to the northwest? If so, you are welcome to park your wagon here if you'd like. Granted, all we can offer in this area right now is lots of smoke from lots of fires But I can offer you a cold brew.
Don
Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks, LLC
www.dlwoodworks.com
***********************************
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece; But to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, bank accounts empty, credit cards maxed out, defiantly shouting "Geronimo"!
If you make something idiot proof, all they do is create a better idiot.
Thanks much for the invite Don. We'll only be in Seattle for a couple days and then back so I'll have to take a raincheck.
Thank you all for your input!!
Dick
Aspire 10.5