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Thread: Using the bot to drill 30" deep holes...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Garland Tx
    Posts
    2,334

    Default Using the bot to drill 30" deep holes...

    We were asked to hang one of our “cookie” style signs with a bracket perpendicular to the building so that it could be seen from both sides… The only way I was comfortable doing this was with threaded rods going the entire distance through the cookie. Our “cookies” are slices of trees (aromatic eastern cedar) and the faces of them are end grain.
    This tree slice is 30” in diameter… how do you bore a hole all the way through without wandering off course? Mr. Google said only possible with ship augers as they are constant diameter and self-guide whatever direction they are started at. I could only find 17” ship augers… but wait, they have extensions for them! Bummer, the extension bit clamp is larger diameter than the bit… Why even call it an extension?
    To make a long story short… I bought a cable guy installers drill bit… its 54” long with a very flexible shaft designed to be steered around inside walls.
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee...-203115398-_-N
    With the Bot, I cut a “V” just slightly shallower than the drill bit shank the length of a 20” piece of 2X4. Using the bot to cut this V-groove assured that the slot was parallel to the table. After inserting the drill bit in the V- slot, I screwed a 2X4 on top of it. I could vary the slop of the bit in the “V” by how tight I screwed it down.
    I’m amazed! I can reliably, predictably and accurately drill the entire width of the cookie!

    SG
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Clayton, NC
    Posts
    449

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by steve_g View Post

    I’m amazed! I can reliably, predictably and accurately drill the entire width of the cookie!

    SG
    I'm amazed too!! Great job thinking outside the box to figure it out. But dang, all this talk of cookies has me wanting a nice crispy oatmeal cookie.
    Daniel E.
    ShopBot PRS 48x96 (2010 Model)
    Porter Cable Router
    Vacuum Table w/ 2 Fein vacs
    Aspire 9.0

    What I do when I don't mess up wood: http://www.pathhome.net

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Wilson, NC
    Posts
    75

    Default

    As a suggestion for next time, you can cut a V and lay a tube into it to use as a guide and drill from both sides. I have an assortment of extra long bits ordered off the internet for drilling long woodturnings.

    Just in case you haven't thought about it, don't trap the wood between your fasteners. Let it float on the bolts. You can also use a stack of rubber washers or o-rings from the plumbing/sink repair dept. as a cushion. The sign will last a lot longer if you allow for seasonal movement.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    cnc routing, portland or
    Posts
    3,633

    Default

    it is the screw tip that really makes the difference. I was drilling 1/4" holes 4" long and the bit would curve. but I found a 6" endemic that I could use in my mill/drill that worked well.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Norman, Ok
    Posts
    3,251

    Default

    Congratulations on the contract.

    I'm posting a swinging sign we completed a year ago. The fixtures which hold this sign are not drilled all the way through. I had a steel fixture made which was placed a foot down in the sign. It was a U shaped piece with eye bolts. This sign was made from rough cedar laminated 6" deep and weighs approx. 450 lbs. I think all signs like this should be allowed to swing, there by relieving the pressure on the fixtures. Also I'd NOT have the L bracket extending above the sign. And there should be piano wire supports, on each side if the leading edge, going back to the wall.

    Joe
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Garland Tx
    Posts
    2,334

    Default

    Hi Joe…
    Your comments are always appreciated! Some clarification please…

    You commented that you’d not have the “L” bracket above the sign… This sign attaches to a building, not free standing, I felt it necessary to have the “diagonal” triangulation support… Are you saying that you’d use an “L” beefy enough that the additional support was unnecessary, and have the leg of the hanger down alongside the sign?

    This sign is being hung inside so I figured it didn’t need to swing in the wind, and designed it to hang directly from the threaded rods that run through it… I think I’ll change this to chain before I install it as to me it looks too rigid!

    Thanks for your comments!
    SG

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Norman, Ok
    Posts
    3,251

    Default

    Steve,

    Your sign bracket would be more attractive if it was reversed. Which is to say the portion being bolted to the wall would be pointing down. Perhaps a decorative chain would be a little more attractive.

    I'm guilty of using as much lipstick on my signs as possible.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Marietta GA
    Posts
    486

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by joe View Post
    Steve,

    Your sign bracket would be more attractive if it was reversed. Which is to say the portion being bolted to the wall would be pointing down. Perhaps a decorative chain would be a little more attractive.

    I'm guilty of using as much lipstick on my signs as possible.
    Probably be more solid and secure as well.

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