Worked steel buildings for almost 5 yrs from foundations to roofing and callbacks. Can't recommend a company as that was in the 80's, but all bolt togethers.
CAN say that virtually all callbacks were for rib roof, and standing seam roofs were pretty much leak proof and snow slid off easier and no ice dams.
Rib roof screws have a neoprene type washer as a seal for the hole you just stuck in your roof, and the guys don't always notice if washer isn't on/peeled off when driving/or didn't compress enough. UV and ice damage do a lot in a few yrs too. You ain't seen nothing until you're called back to fix a roof under 3' of snow and the way to find the bad screws is to look at ceiling for sections of insul that look like water balloons and looking for the drips on the floor during January thaw.
In the North, I'd consider using radiant heat in the slab. Used Wirsbo here(3,700 linear ft in 2,500 square feet, but that's residential)https://www.uponorpro.com/Extranet/L...-C623E4F645B5}
and LOVE how uniform the heat is. At the least I would use blue foam on INTERIOR of frost walls to provide a thermal break, but under slab is good also to speed heating response. They make staples to shoot into the foam to hold tubing down and then put your wire down on top. A Little slower response time, but tubing is safer when you cut your expansion joints in slab.
Another thing you might like to look at is "Sun Tubes". Can't find the identical ones to mine(3 12" and a 21" in garage), but these look close.
https://www.uponorpro.com/Extranet/L...-C623E4F645B5}
On sunny days, about like a 75w bulb for the 12", and a lot of benefit even on overcast days.
Put near peak because of snow and if you can, extend them as much as your single event snowstorm average. I WOULD put icejacks about 12-16" downslope of them to prevent side pressure from snow above them(Don't ask how I know
DO cut yourself some additional acrylic circles to go above bottom diffuser and silicone completely ALL bottom/side joints so humidity from shop can't get into tube.
Mine are 20yrs old and except for checking seals every other yr on roof and the above mentioned snow pressure that very first year----NO problems and love not Having to throw a light switch unless it's needed.
Vertical walls to the trusses I think best.
Make sure enough soffit width/overhang to help from snow denting your sheets where it will pile up.
Maybe consider solar heater collection on South side like Brian H. did?
Sorry no more relevant response to suppliers.
scott
scott P.
2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
Maine