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Thread: How to keep shipping materials from sticking to painted 2D cutouts.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Vicksburg MS
    Posts
    66

    Default How to keep shipping materials from sticking to painted 2D cutouts.

    I've been using rattle can paint to spray 2D cutouts. It seems to be the best option for my needs. I am concerned, though, about the paint sticking to the cardboard in shipping. We've had a really damp week here, and I am concerned that the paint may not have fully cured. It feels dry.

    This may be one of those things where I am being overt paranoid, but I wanted to play it safe and ask if there was anything that I could use to wrap the piece that would add some insurance to prevent sticking? Wax paper, foil, cloth, etc?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Houston Texas
    Posts
    366

    Default

    Stick it in the oven

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    TX
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    709

    Default

    Wax paper is a good idea.

    It may leave some residue on the object- but I imagine it would only be noticeable if the color is very dark.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    , On
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    854

    Default

    Backing paper from sign shop vinyl. They throw out tons, especially if laminating.

    Try a hhair dryer as well.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Vicksburg MS
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    66

    Default

    Vinyl backing is a good idea.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    , washington
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    180

    Default

    My experience with rattle can paints , and most enamels
    dark colors take a LONG time to cure. covering them with anything will retard/extend that time
    maybe a small fan blowing across the part for a few hours will help

    years ago I built a hot box out of an old server cabinet, has an oil filled radiant heater
    Generally set it to about 100F, but even that doesn't give a full cure in less than 24 hrs.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Wilson, NC
    Posts
    74

    Default

    I have built hotboxes for curing composites using 3/4" foam, tape, and light bulbs as a heat source. It works very well and is quite cheap. You can find simple light bulb mounts at a home store and cut up a household extension cord for wiring. With a couple of 75 watt incandescents you can hit 150° easily with a 3-4 cubic foot, 5-sided box placed over the items on a workbench.

    For the super cheap solution, I have cured several items in a car with the windows rolled up in full sunlight. Temps can get surprisingly high.

    Cure times will vary, but 6 hour to overnight heats will harden most stuff.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Memphis TN
    Posts
    694

    Default

    I use cardboard and a lightbulb. Keeps it about 15 degrees above ambient. That's enough to dry most anything in 24 hours.
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    543

    Default

    I have two little barrell heaters I turn on my paint.
    Then I sit stuff on top of the fridge for a couple weeks. They say that's the warmest place in the house, I don't know.
    But it's always worked.
    You can't rush paint. Patience is a virtue, and pushing paint out the door just costs money.

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