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Thread: Porter Cable 75182 repair, or just trash it?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    21

    Default Porter Cable 75182 repair, or just trash it?

    My ShopBot was 10 years old when I bought it 5.5 years ago. I don't know if the router motor (3.25 hp Porter Cable 75128) was 10 years old or not, but I've used it regularly for the last 5.5 years. This week it was noticeably louder and I could see blue sparks through the vent holes in the housing. I swapped it out with a spare from my conventional router table and it's obviously smoother and quieter.

    My question: Is it worth trying to rebuild the old motor or just scrap it? I assume it needs new brushes, but is there more to it than that? Even rebuilt, will it be worth using or is it likely worn to the point that it has excessive run out?

    If anyone has had one professionally rebuilt I'd appreciate contact information and an approximate cost.

    I've ordered a replacement already and if anyone's interested I got it for $285.99 delivered from "Factory Authorized Outlet". There's a $20.00 discount until the end of the year and free shipping. They didn't collect tax for me, but YMMV on that. I bought the one I just put in the ShopBot for $255 or so back in 2011. I guess $30 isn't too bad over 4 years.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Mound, Mn
    Posts
    57

    Default

    It probably ( most likley) just brushes on the router. I have changed mine 3 or 4 times.it easy todo and cheap to replace . Could be a good choice for a backup router.

    John David

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    SOUTH CENTRAL COLORADO
    Posts
    1,155

    Default

    MY router eats brushes for breakfast. I do mainly 3-d so i am sure thats what causes that. the sparks are a good indication that the brushes are bad. Chances are they will always spark a little but when a little turns into a lot.............

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Piedmont, SD
    Posts
    728

    Default FWIW: collet runout solution for these motors

    Recently bought one of these motors with an Excalibur router table, and found excessive run out- as in you could see the wobble as it idled down. Researched on line and found this is normal- mine measured .004" and there are examples showing that up to .006" run out is common.

    I followed advice posted by precise bits .com, picked up their ER style nut and collet set for the Porter Cable, and things are much smoother now. Not a cheap kit, but incessantly pounding your bits, workpiece and the motor itself is senseless.

    Kit included ER-style nut and matching wrench, 1/4 and 1/2" collets plus some cotton applicators and collet care sauce. A thorough dissertation on collet care and use is included, so I'll be more attentive to the spindle on the shop bot as well. Not bad for under $100.

    So- while tending to these motors, I'd recommend you take a look at their offerings.

    jeff

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    SOUTH CENTRAL COLORADO
    Posts
    1,155

    Default

    oh yeah i use their collets and have 3 different sizes.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    iBILD Solutions - Southern NJ
    Posts
    7,986

    Default

    Keep your old PC router & rebuild it. It is better than the newer ones.

    Replace the bearings and brushes yourself. There are videos on how to do this on YT.

    -B
    High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Thanks everyone. I found a video and got the brushes out, they're obviously worn. The top end has a lot of slop in it, but odd it doesn't seem to be the bearing itself, but the bearing is loose in the housing. When you shake the whole unit you can hear it clunking as it goes back and forth. The bottom seems relatively tight, but doesn't sound very good. I didn't find a video on bearing replacement for this exact model. I did find a three part series on a B&D, which is probably similar. It's about 30 minutes though and I don't have the patience to sit through that. Maybe I can find a written tutorial.

    I looked at the collets at PreciseBits.com. So is the recommendation just to get the collets and nut rather than the full blown ER conversion?

    Honestly, I cut 3/4" baltic birch into parts with relatively low tolerance 99% of the time. Certainly I would like things to run smoother, but I'm not building rocket ships.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Piedmont, SD
    Posts
    728

    Default

    Ted,
    Took me a few minutes of browsing there to realize you could buy just the nut and collet set for an entry-level upgrade. While it is tempting to go all the way and convert to what I believe they referred to as an ER-16 system with shaft and all, I was not ready to double the investment in my router motor for a simple router table. Price to performance comparison, the low-grade upgrade was just right for my needs and budget. The fact that you do not have to tear it down may be one of the most appealing aspects of the collet/nut set.

    Were I using this on the CNC, I'd likely spring for the $300+ primo kit, but think it is wisest to do so with a fresh motor, as opposed to during a re-build. $600 in the heart of the cnc for spindle-like accuracy is very reasonable, considering the thousands saved over a spindle investment.

    I was truly stunned to see the motor so heavily used on Shop bots had such run-out, and wondered how good it could be for 3-D carving. I assume many others using the PC motors have upgraded via precise bits, but thought I'd bring up the topic in case some were not aware of this option.

    jeff

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    21

    Default

    The motor I just put in has relatively low hours on it as it's been in a traditional router table with little use. I have a brand new one on the way to replace it and act as backup for the CNC, which is what I bought it for in the first place. It sat in the box for a couple of years before I bought the table and lift to make some use of it. The motor with bad brushes will be the second line back up, or to use if I have some really rough work to do with a router (I have a base around here somewhere).

    I think for my purposes the "entry-level upgrade" will be more than adequate. I'd like to do some 3D carving, but just don't have the time right now.

    Thanks to everyone for the advice.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    21

    Default

    As a side note, over the last two days I've been surfacing a very warped walnut slab that's 30" at it's widest by 10' long. I took from 1/2" to 3/4" off of it in no more than .08" passes with a 1.5" bit. About half way through is when I decided the router motor wasn't going to survive the job and swapped it out. I reset my home position several times in the process as my table is only 4'x8' so I was moving the slab back and forth in the X to reach all of it. After I finished I checked my X/Y zero and X was only off 0.015" and Y was still at 0.000". I recently upgraded the controller and motors and this kind of repeatability is amazing to me considering what I had before.

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