How do you tool path for a Keyhole bit. How do you get it to plumnge move over and then back to the same hole to extract the bit??
How do you tool path for a Keyhole bit. How do you get it to plumnge move over and then back to the same hole to extract the bit??
www.tgdesigns.net
eking1953@yahoo.com
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ST. FRANCIS OF ASSISI
In Aspire, I just create a small circle where I want the starting hole to be, then select it and choose the "Keyhole Toolpath" from Gadgets. Tell the the direction and length and it does the rest.
Daniel E.
ShopBot PRS 48x96 (2010 Model)
Porter Cable Router
Vacuum Table w/ 2 Fein vacs
Aspire 9.0
What I do when I don't mess up wood: http://www.pathhome.net
The old fashioned way, before “gadgets”, was to draw a “U” shape with only a few thousandths between the legs, tell your software to cut “on the line” at a specified depth. The router will go to the start node, plunge to the specified depth, follow the “U” over and back, and retract to your material clearance depth. You, naturally, must use a keyhole bit…
SG
or even a pocket as long as you make sure of the start point.
Using the line tool in VCP/Aspire, click to set the start point, click the end point (or fill in the length/angle value and add), and then click/snap to the start point again to finish the line. Toolpath on the line at the proper depth with use vector start points enabled. It will plunge at the beginning, travel the distance, return to the start point and raise up. Save that toolpath as a template to quickly load and use the next time you need to toolpath keyholes.
Scott
I do mine the old fashioned way, gives it a bit of an angle to bite into the screw as you hang the piece. Of course this assumes that you are using a keyhole bit:
J3,1.0000,43.6250,0.4000
J3,1.0000,43.6250,0.1000
M3,1.0000,43.6250,-0.350
M3,1.0000,42.8750,-0.4000
M3,1.0000,43.6250,-0.350
J3,1.0000,43.6250,0.4000
2005 PRT Alpha 48x96
2013 Colombo 3hp spindle
Indexer (converted lathe)
Aspire 9.0
I do it the old fashioned way by creating a poly line make a start point then the next point is the end of the slot then you make the last point the same as the start point. The tool will go down and back without lifting until it gets to the last point which was the same as the start point. I was doing this before they had the gadget and since it works I never changed the method.
Mike
WWW.MillerMarineProducts.com
Proto Trak DPM CNC Bed Mill
Brand X Industrial router
Sharp SVL-2416SE-M VMC
I would be careful of my feeds and speeds. I have a standard Buddy and I managed to make it lose some ('lots) of steps the first time I tried this. I used the Vectric gadget but forgot about pushing the bit too hard...joe
Scott,
I've never saved a toolpath as a template. Is there a tutorial on it?
BTW, thanks for posting your routine for work offsets. I always learn more from looking at some code then reading a manual.
I haven't figured the button thing yet but that is next.
James
My keyhole tool-path is a thin rectangle 2 x .01 inches
You can start in one corner and have it cut the rectangle slowly perhaps .1 IPS
I go about .3 inches deep. Practice in MDF.
I like the keyhole bit from Home Depot it has two flutes rather than one. Go too fast and they break for sure. Vac the dust as you go.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-25...0104/100660656
The decimal point seems to be the most important on the z axis... x & y not so much....
ShopBot... Where even the scraps and things you mess up and throw away are cool....