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Thread: Edge profile bits

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    Palm Coast, FL
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    191

    Default Edge profile bits

    I was asked to make a lid for a large urn type vessel. I cut the lid and handle on the ShopBot. The edge profile on the lid was done with a 1" bullnose bit on the router table. As the bit had no bearing I cut a fence from scrap MDF with a diameter that matched the lid.

    I've come to realize that not every operation needs to be done on the CNC, but I was wondering how I could have done this operation on the CNC. I realize hold down would be an issue and the lid would need to be elevated above the spoilboard. I guess this could be done with some form of vacuum pod. Specifically I was wondering how this cut would be programmed in VCarve/Aspire. Would you use the "lead" in a profile cut? How would you plunge the bit to the full depth? How would you make the cut in more than one pass, given that each pass would be a circle of smaller diameter?

    This particular bit would be a pretty aggressive example of this type of cut, but I'm sure there are plenty of other edge profile bits that could be used to machine on the edge of the material instead of just the top of the material. Any insight as to how to get started on this would be appreciated.
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    PRS Alpha 96-60 ATC
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    eCabinets with ShopBot Link

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 1999
    Location
    Rock Hill SC
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    406

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    I see from your pictures that you are using a lot of screws to hold things to your spoil board. Same here until I discovered Raptor nails and the Omer nailgun. The nails are plastic and strong as all get out, in tension. They will shear cleanly if you give the item that they are holding a good whack with a mallet.
    The beauty of this is twofold. First you can put something down rapidly and remove it rapidly. Second if you hit a hold down with the cutter you will never know about it. Your bit just cuts the nail and goes on its way. I have even used this feature to hold stuff in an area where there was cutting happening but later would be concealed.
    The nail Gun is a specially built thing that costs about $350. But the time and effort it saves will pay for itself in short order.
    Do a search on this forum. Lots of talk about this in the past.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Norman, Ok
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    3,096

    Default

    What a craftsman.

    Thanks for posting.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    2,183

    Default

    I would use a vacuum puck that would raise the part off the table and hold it at the same time.

  5. #5
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    Norman, Ok
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    I'd suggest everyone interested take a look at Keith's facebook link. https://www.facebook.com/SyzygyWoodworks/

    Looking at websites is can be a treasure trove. Most commercial businesses spend time developing this kind of advertising.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    Palm Coast, FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlempicke View Post
    I see from your pictures that you are using a lot of screws to hold things to your spoil board. Same here until I discovered Raptor nails and the Omer nailgun. The nails are plastic and strong as all get out, in tension. They will shear cleanly if you give the item that they are holding a good whack with a mallet.
    The beauty of this is twofold. First you can put something down rapidly and remove it rapidly. Second if you hit a hold down with the cutter you will never know about it. Your bit just cuts the nail and goes on its way. I have even used this feature to hold stuff in an area where there was cutting happening but later would be concealed.
    The nail Gun is a specially built thing that costs about $350. But the time and effort it saves will pay for itself in short order.
    Do a search on this forum. Lots of talk about this in the past.
    Thanks for the recommendation. Yes, I had looked into the Raptor gun a while back. At the time most of my cutting was sheet goods with vacuum hold down and I couldn't justify the cost of the Raptor. I'm cutting more and more hardwood and hold down is always an issue. As you say, the screws are time consuming and nerve wracking. I will take your advice and get a Raptor. Which one are you using? Looking at the website I was thinking the OMER® B17P.763 Finish Nailer would be a good choice. 15 gauge, fires nails from 1/2" to 2 1/4".

    http://raptornails.com/product-catalog/nailers.php

    Quote Originally Posted by jerry_stanek View Post
    I would use a vacuum puck that would raise the part off the table and hold it at the same time.
    Yes. That's what I was thinking. What I don't know is how to program the cut in V Carve/Aspire.
    PRS Alpha 96-60 ATC
    16.9hp Republic Regenerative Blower
    Aspire 8.5
    eCabinets with ShopBot Link

    https://www.facebook.com/SyzygyWoodworks/

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 1999
    Location
    Rock Hill SC
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    406

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    I have that exact gun and I am very happy with it. I got it here
    http://www.boatdesigns.com/Raptorreg.../products/926/
    It is a boat building site. The non rusting quality of plastic nails makes it a big thing for boat builders.
    I use 1 1/4 inch nails in it most of the time.

  8. #8
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    Jul 2014
    Location
    Bell, Florida
    Posts
    366

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    Hi Keith

    I would make a tool path like a Q so it would reach depth on the tail, go in cut the circle then follow the tail back out - repeating with smaller circles until the cut is where you want.
    for sure a would cut small amounts at a time as with that much cutting surface there will be a lot of force on the wood.

    Tim
    Tim Lucas Custom Woodworks
    www.TLCW.us

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Davenport Iowa
    Posts
    158

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    Keith
    I was just at the IWF and found Senco has a new nail gun that also used the plastic nails. Didn't look at price. I have the raptor gun. Seance gun looked nice.
    Life is like a project you continue to work on until it's finished.
    Never start a project you don't intend to finish!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Palm Coast, FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlempicke View Post
    I have that exact gun and I am very happy with it. I got it here
    http://www.boatdesigns.com/Raptorreg.../products/926/
    It is a boat building site. The non rusting quality of plastic nails makes it a big thing for boat builders.
    I use 1 1/4 inch nails in it most of the time.
    Thank you!

    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Lucas View Post
    Hi Keith

    I would make a tool path like a Q so it would reach depth on the tail, go in cut the circle then follow the tail back out - repeating with smaller circles until the cut is where you want.
    for sure a would cut small amounts at a time as with that much cutting surface there will be a lot of force on the wood.doing

    Tim
    Thanks Tim. That's the approach I was thinking you would need to take. The challenge would be drawing the tool accurately in the tool database. In this case, making the cut on the router table is probably the smart choice, but there must be other times it would be good to make a cut on the edge of the material. Cutting slots with a slot cutter for example. I'm going to the Vectric camp in Orlando in October, so I might ask about this while I am there.


    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Sully View Post
    Keith
    I was just at the IWF and found Senco has a new nail gun that also used the plastic nails. Didn't look at price. I have the raptor gun. Seance gun looked nice.
    I read about the Senco in one of the woodwork newsletters I get. I searched for it, but I don't think it is available yet.
    PRS Alpha 96-60 ATC
    16.9hp Republic Regenerative Blower
    Aspire 8.5
    eCabinets with ShopBot Link

    https://www.facebook.com/SyzygyWoodworks/

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