Large walnut slab table

[Ajcoholic]

A few weeks ago I was contacted by a customer of mine, and asked to make a large (48" by 100") walnut table with a slab top, and very plain overall appearance.

Surprisingly, my normal wholesaler was able to quickly source me some 12/4 black walnut, in 10' lengths and pretty darn good stock at that.

I wanted to do something other than just have a "plain" base trestles (their initial idea) so I proposed using some walnut burl veneer from my private stash - and making some panels that would be set into the trestle faces.

Another easy job with the CNC router (and not so easy without).

I laminated the 32" wide by 27.5" panels (all 2 3/4" thick) and pocketed the two sides on the router. Yesterday I vacuum bagged the burl veneer onto a piece of 1/4", and today I cut the panels out on the CNC as well.

Took 4 minutes to pocket each face of the trestles, and about a minute per panel to cut out (all with a 3/8" spiral). I allowed 15 thousandths clearance, and they slip fit ever so nicely into the pockets.

Here are some pics.. I just finished sanding the top and trestles before the end of the day, and applied a coat of clear oil to bring out the grain. Will be finished next week with post catalyzed lacquer.

The burl panels after layup...


Cutting the panels. I do a pass climb cutting, almost all the way through, then a conventional pass cutting through. Everything held down on the universal vacuum table.


Pocketing the trestle panels..


And the panels set into the trestles (set down 1/4" from the face)..

[Ajcoholic]

And the top. For lovers of walnut only! lol..

[Tim Lucas]

Beautiful !!

[cowboy1296]

I luv black walnut. Here is an update on my slab table made from bubinga. I stole an idea off of internet and had made a 4 inch industrial i-beam stand which weighs in at 250 by itself. Now when i got the board it was satin. I am interested in taking that to semi gloss to a gloss. Its to heavy to move so i need to do it in the house. So any ideas i am all ears

[Ajcoholic]

Why did you need those metal straps on the underside?

Any finish can be polished up in sheen. To go to a high gloss, my general procedure is to went sand with 400/600/1200 grit wet and dry paper (using a bit of dish soap in warm water as a lube). Then I have 3 grades of polish I use on a foam or felt pad on a pneumatic rotary buffer, and finally a swirl remover for the final polish. That will get you to a mirror finish.

Requires you have enough material on there in the first place though, to work with.

Bubinga is another favourite of mine. I was thinking of a bubinga panel in the base of this table, but decided the burl walnut was less contrast and would suit the look better for this one.

[cowboy1296]

Its not straps but angle iron. Since i bought the slab used i can only assume that the original builder was trying to prevent warpage or even splitting. The slab by itself weighs in about 300.

Once you have polished the table is it susceptible to scratching? What polish do you use or does it matter? What do you mean by material?

Thanks for the help.

[Ajcoholic]

Its not straps but angle iron. Since i bought the slab used i can only assume that the original builder was trying to prevent warpage or even splitting. The slab by itself weighs in about 300.

Once you have polished the table is it susceptible to scratching? What polish do you use or does it matter? What do you mean by material?

Thanks for the help.

By material I mean you need a minimum film thickness (of whatever is on there) in order to wet sand and polish up.

The wet sanding is to flatten the surface. If you try and polish a finish without first leveling it off, you will make it shiny but you will also see every imperfection/bump/etc.

If I am starting with a good finish on a flat surface I will start at 600. Dont sand too long without drying the surface and looking at the progress... it is easier than you might think to burn through the finish and while wet, you wont notice until it is too late.

For an easy want to add some shine (if you arent trying to get a piano finish) just lightly sand with some 400 grit, then go to 0000 steel wool and some vaseline for a lubricant.

I thought you made up the top, hence my question. So the angle is routed into the top then... prob to try and keep to flat Id guess.

I am going to fabricate some steel plate/angle to attach these trestles to the top. The customer doesnt want any stretchers between the base pieces.. so I will have to make sure they are very securely fastened to the top to prevent racking.

[Ajcoholic]

Once you have polished the table is it susceptible to scratching? What polish do you use or does it matter?

Any glossy finish will show wear and tear more than a duller one. How easily it scratches is dependent upon the finish and hardness of the finish.

You can use any compound for rubbing out and polishing paints/lacquers/plastics etc. Automotive products are easier to get - just a series of pastes that are of varying grit. Usually come in a can or tub mixed with either water or some sort of solvent to form a paste. Car buffing supplies (not wax, but the stuff used to go from a wet sanded finish to a gloss, same as you want to do with your table), musical instrument buffing and polishing supplies, etc.

[steve_g]

Wow! Very nice! You’ve really got me excited about some Walnut we just put in the kiln… I image there will be some tables in that batch!
SG

[cowboy1296]

Looking at all of that black walnut is like being in a man's candy store. Thanks for the advise and help. As much as i like the top, its not perfectly smooth so i think that i will listen to your warning.