Is It A Big Deal Making A 3 Axis Zero Plate?

[rb99]

I think I can machine a plate, but what about the routine?

What is everyone doing/using? I had the old ball screw Z and I would use the motors off command, then manually turn the screw until the Z was at the right height (using a piece of paper). Then I turned the motors on and I was good to go. Now I have the new Z and motors off doesn't exist...

I am in the last stages of refurbishing my old machine but the zeroing
will be my last hurdle. For now. Until I tackle vacuum hold down, and limit switches...

I am out of practice with the SB, so any guidance is appreciated.

[Davo]

Speaking of zeroing

Can you just get the bit near the surface - loosen the collet and let the bit touch the surface - retighten? Seems that would be a true zero unless retightening moves the bit too much

[Brady Watson]

Just make yourself a Zzero plate. A piece of 2" X 12" AL bar 1/8" thick, bent up on the end and a wire connected to the plate is all you need. Depot sells AL plate like this at drug store prices. Plug it into input 1. You could make it out of a wire, and a tin-foil covered brick if you really wanted to...It's so simple.

Make sure machine is grounded to control box. Plug wire into input 1. Run TS and mic plate. Enter thickness. Touch plate to collet. If input 1 lights up, "Bob's your uncle"; if not, you need a ground wire to Gnd terminal on control board with an alligator clip on the router end; especially for ones with worn brushes. Clip it to the collet. Then touch plate.

SB runs 3 wires up to the plate Wago connector: Ground, Input1, 5v (for probe). Gator clip connects to ground.

Nobody needs a 3-axis plate. Why anyone would want one is beyond me (please explain what you think this will do for you). Take one of your broken bits and sharpen it to a point. Use it as an indicator for aligning the tool to an edge or center point. Then use the Z commands to set the axis zero.

Zeroing the Z using the other methods mentioned is knuckle-draggery. You will never get the level of precision (percision maybe) that you need to do fine work. Once you use a Zzero plate, you'll wish that you made one sooner.

-B

[Bob T]

Davo,
Depending upon your required tolerance and flatness of your table I would think you could do what you described and reset your z zero, but I can't think of a situation where that would be the best option. Z zero to the bar on the table or material seems immeasurably more accurate than your eyeball. But, I am comparatively new to this . . .

[srwtlc]

An XY axis zeroing plate is indispensable for me. I'll call it a two axis here as I never use it for zeroing the Z axis (easier and better to use the SB supplied Z zeroing plate). I use it for setting up fixtures at various locations on the table and then can save those locations as offsets from table base coordinates to return to and move freely between any of them as they are used. No futzing with eyeballing a v-bit and not being accurately set up. It also makes setting your table base coordinates accurate and easy.

I've shared the drawings and files for my plate before, but here's the link again. http://1drv.ms/1wAWrln

[Brady Watson]

Thanks Scott I didn't think of that. It makes a lot of sense for offsets.

-B

[James M]

Scott,

Thanks for sharing your design. Question, what is the purpose of the lobes in the second one-piece design?

Thanks,

James

[srwtlc]

It's a deterrent feature. It keeps you from using it the wrong way (credit to Kyle Stapleton for the integral fence/lobe modification). If using it on an outside corner of a fixture or part, you hook the lipped edge over the fixture/part. If using it on an inside corner, you use the edges that allow a tight fit in the corner (the lobes won't allow that corner to settle into an inside corner). A banana plug is used on one end of the cord and you can plug it in on either corner of it depending on the usage (the other end of the cord has an alligator clip to clip onto the z-zero plate).

[James M]

Scott,

Thanks for the answer. Your explanation makes perfect sense. I forgot that you could use it for an inside corner.

James

[rb99]

Thank you everyone for the help and input.

I am unsure about the inputs mentioned about the 4g controller. Where are they? Are these the same ones I would use if I want to put in stop or proximity switches? How many are there? What else are they good for? What other if any goodies are hiding in the box?

Is there some sort of layout or explanation/manual I missed when I bought the controller?