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Thread: Flip Milling Process

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Posts
    889

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    The plug fixture makes very thin walled cups possible (as long as they don't have any cracks or knots..). When I cut the plug on the machine, which must be tight fitting but not a press fit, I drill a bit size hole in the middle as future x/y zero-reference (also serves as vacuum conduit). You must register inside cut and outside cut very precisely or the wall will be uneven and the cup look cock-eyed.

    The other advantage of this method is the part comes off the machine as a finished shape (no tabs of onion skin to cut off) and you can use 90+% of the wood without much loss.
    I am not sure if the shopvac will do it, since the holding surface area is already small. For my lamp shades it is only 7 square inches which comes out to 60-70 pounds vertical holding force at 20 inches of vacuum. A Shopvac has much lower vacuum capability which may be O.K. for spoilboard/sheet good duty but probably not enough for such a pod. But a small oil-less vacuum pump is only about $150 on eBay.
    Box Joint, Dovetail and MazeMaker Software Here

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Posts
    889

    Default

    Maybe a few pics should explain it better:

    1. Roughing the inside cavity with an end mill


    2.Finish cut inside with a 1/2" ballnose:


    3. Vacuum plug fixture (the gash in the side is the result of an accident...). The gasket was originally a bit oversized and clamped in between the plug and the bottom plate. It was machined to size with the first part cut.


    4. Small lamp shade from redwood (bottom wall only 0.08")
    Box Joint, Dovetail and MazeMaker Software Here

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