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Thread: IKEA cubicle door hack, 3D oval dragon in leopardwood

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Pacific NW
    Posts
    57

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    Thanks, Scott.
    Wes, The mill traveled across the grain, no fuzzies. I didn't know one could change the axis until I viewed another Vectric tutorial , and I didn't know one could clean up fuzzies until Bleeth mentioned the ZZ command, I lucked out. Yes, will buy another leopardwood board if it I chance upon a wide one!
    ShopBot Desktop MAX, spindle, 3" Indexer, Aspire 8.5, and a big learning curve...

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Hobby-Tronics, Chiloquin Oregon
    Posts
    1,121

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    "(Russ, chipout even with a downcut?)" I have not had good luck with veneers or thin wood sheets. My assumption is that it is my hold down methods that may allow the material to 'flap' a little. That's why I use the utility knife method which works for me.

    I have done the drawings for making a vacuum system and that should help a lot. On solid hardwoods and the like I don't seem to have the same issues.

    In my model making I use mostly sintra plastic which is very stable and of course has no grain! The larger live steam models I use cabinet grade plywoods and so again not an issue. Russ
    AKA: The Train Guy

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
    Posts
    3,616

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    Ah...I forgot how thin some of your stuff is for the models. I can see how vibration could get into the act easily and screw up the edge Thanks!
    Oh, Carolina...I and a few others cut against the grain on 3D's and have found we like the finish on denser hardwoods...a lot seems to be up to the species, but with the 2.5" DC inlet, roughing against the grain really prevents clogging of the hose inlet with the long strips that sometimes happen with roughing with the grain.
    After considerable testing on my tiny 3D stuff, my go to is finishing against the grain for any first cut with a new hardwood or exotic.
    scott
    Scott Plaisted
    Desktop/spindle/VCP 8.5**
    Maine

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Pacific NW
    Posts
    57

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    Thanks Scott, its interesting to know why I lucked out (going against/across the grain). I am still so fascinated with watching the CNC that I admit I still follow the bit with a hose vac in my hand. I just recently put up the acrylic sides to reduce the mess. And only recently could tear myself away from watching the CNC at work, to being a few steps nearby or even leaving it for a few minutes after I was confident it was in the midst of a long routine. I sometimes wonder if vacuuming the chips during the routing really helps, as I can't tell any difference if I have walked away (with no vacuum on). My ShopBot is still on the ground, as the original Maker Crate was damaged, and I only recently received a replacement, still have to put a finish on the new crate before the Desktop MAX goes up on the Crate, that's why I have put off hooking up a vac to it. And I like to see the mill bit at work, so I haven't used the brush boot either. Sigh.
    ShopBot Desktop MAX, spindle, 3" Indexer, Aspire 8.5, and a big learning curve...

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
    Posts
    3,616

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    My Dad still can't be in the same room and not watch the Desktop cutting
    After a couple of years, I can leave it alone and do other stuff once a one of has started correctly and is cutting decent chips for the bit, but I'm usually within 6' and ready to rush to the spacebar if I hear anything funky.
    IF you can't tell the difference, then I wouldn't chase it with the vac hose, as a fair amount of people have had static discharge doing that.
    GOOD that the new Crate is almost finished so you can get off the floor, and get the DC hooked up(DON'T forget grounding with bare braided wire on interior of hose without touching the Max).
    I didn't know any better when I was testing my mini 3D's(buttons) so as well as 3 different feeds/speeds, I tossed an against the grain in for kicks and giggles. and to my surprise it cut the best, and finish was better with one pass, than 2 passes with the grain in Bloodwood test piece.
    One other 'Botter mucked up once and set his blank down 90 degrees to his usual with the grain, and was surprised to get his best finish ever. I just recently read on Vectric forum that on Black Walnut he now always goes against the grain and "Fuzzies are now a thing of the past", but again a lot depends on the species and figure of the wood.
    I now set my file up for 3D's with a 2" safe Z height in SB3(if I can with wood thickness/bit length), and watch the first few passes without the dust boot to see cut quality, and then do a spacebar pause, and it retracts enough to put the dust foot on, and do a Resume. By changing safe Z in SB3, I can keep my Vectric Z1 and Z2 at .2" and .02" for faster cutting. (spacebar pause reverts the Vectric file to SB3 settings,and Resume puts it back into Vectric settings).
    I need to get back into G's Fingermaker!
    Glad you're having fun
    scott
    Scott Plaisted
    Desktop/spindle/VCP 8.5**
    Maine

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