Redwood V Carving Tips

[Walt_S]

Chuck, I was thinking about your post last night, if you look at the straight lines in my second photo above, the painted version, there was no tearout what so ever on those lines, which went all the way around the piece. There was also some smaller text with the same font below the shown text with no tearout. So I think we can probably conclude it is the grain indeed. I recut that text last night with a different 60* bit and used a start depth of 0.01" to see if it might clear someof it up. It did, but it left some new tearout places, too, although not as bad. Both bits are fairly new and sharp.

Burkhardt, thanks for the examples. I was thinking of some other pieces I carved for Christmas gifts. They were from a different piece of redwod, which looking at it last night is noitcably darker and has much finer grain than the one above. I also cut them with the grain running vertically instead of horizontally. They were both a large font cut with I think a 1/4" 90 bit. I'll have to find the pictures, but they turned out perfect. So maybe you're on to something with your last sentence. Lol, maybe if I rotate my design 90* and turn the board with the grain running vertically it will help. :/

Btw, do you have a link for the ebay bit? I buy some of mine there with good success.

[Burkhardt]

I bought mine a few years ago for $6 but it looks like similar ones are nowadays only $1.58 with free shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/60-Degree-Router-CNC-Engraving-V-Groove-Bit-6mm-x-22mm-1-4-Shank-22mm-Tool-mw-/322349768719

Quite ridiculous but the one that I bought back then works absolutely fine. Sharp carbide, maybe 15/1000" tip width and no unbalance. That said I do not run it over 12krpm due to the heavy head and slim shank.

They say 1/4" shank but it is actually 6mm and a 1/4" collet will not work well.

[joe]

I love carving Redwood.

I haven't had problems like those shown. I'm suspicious it's the bit. On this kind of work you should have the best, sharpest cutters on the market. And they should be be kept sharp. Second, if you take a look at the example posted in, "First Sign" you may notice the redwood is vertical grain. That was done on kiln dried stock. I've found kiln dried lumber is much less likely to have tear out since the sap have been converted.

My favorite is the 120 degree bit. It doesn't cut very deep on letters with a heavy stroke. A finish pass is always a good measure.

Joe Crumley
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[Walt_S]

Thanks Joe.

So the wood in my photos is mixed grain, correct? Does vertical grain carv better than mixed grain? And it is kiln dried. I believe after looking at my stock the larger 1x12 is vertical grain and that is what I had cut previously that turned out well. Since I have no lumber yards close to me I can't be too choosey, I have to pick from what they have. But I'll look closer at the grain now. Is there a trick to cutting mixed grain versus vertical grain?

[scottp55]

Joe,
Was it you that said when you went through the stack, you always looked for as close to vertical grain as possible, and tightest growth rings unless you were sandblasting?
Walt's looks like the edge of the heart/sap line flat sawn and close to horizontal growth rings.
I noticed with a couple softer hardwoods, that the pith layer falling exactly wrong for small VCarving and 3D's caused problems, and was wondering if clear vertical grain redwood was better cutting.
scott

[Walt_S]

I found one of my Christmas plaques that turned out well. This, as is the other piece, is sold as "kiln dried heart B redwood D4S". I wish they had rough cut like they do their cedar, but it's better than nothing, if I can carve it that is.

mrp.jpg

edit - I had carved the above using the same bit I carved the one this post is about, it is an 1/8 60.

[joe]

Walt,

There's a couple of advantages to vertical grain. The first reason is our signs are exterior. When the grain is on end it's less likely to warp and split. But most of all, when sandblasted, it will carry more detail and show wood texture best.

Perhaps you could look, on the web, for "Kiln Dried Redwood" or "Clear Heart Redwood" to get a better idea. Since you aren't using much of this kind of wood I'd suggest getting the cost delivered to your shop.

Vertical grain does not mean the grain is close together. I have used construction grade wide grain redwood on some projects. Also I've used common grade Yellow Pine vertical grade with success. I love that wood and it's cheap. It will not crack or split, even though it's not kiln dried, if you choose the vertical grain boards. What I do is go to the end of the boards to choose. I'll see if I can fins a photo.

[scottp55]

You can see by where in the log it is affects the growth/pith rings.
You want it to look as close to Quartersawn end grain pattern as possible probably.
The round plaque looks close to rift sawn

[Walt_S]

Thanks Joe, between your explanation and Scotts pictures I know what to look for now.

Thanks Scott. I was just looking at some of those diagrams myself. I think I got it now and know what to look for. As for what I have on hand I have to figure how to deal with.

[joe]

Scott's illustrations are excellent but what you should consider is how close together the growth rings are. For V carving you want tight grain. But still, I think your main problem is the bit. Try a Onsrud 100 or 120 and I think you'll be surprised.

Joe
www.normansignco.com