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Thread: table idea

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    58

    Default table idea

    hi there.
    im new to the forum. just got a 8x4 shop bot a month ago.

    the table is wrecked and needs replacing.
    what i am thinking about doing is drilling holes 3 " on center over the whole area , i would put threaded inserts in from the bottom . i can then use bolts to hold down work pieces
    and a series of 20mm holes i would use for allignment dogs to keep everything consistant.
    i will then get a second sheet and drill the same but with a bit more clearance around it and use it a spoil board.
    i was going to use some plast bolts to hold the spoil board down .

    there is a vac table on it but its wrecked and i have no pump yet.
    what i am thinking about doing is drilling 1.5" holes here and there on the table and plumbing them up with waste pipe . i could then make pods out of hdpe to give me back the vac table but allow me to put them in diferent places to suit the job at hand. it would also keep the piece elevated to alow cutting on the sides without cuttting the table underneeth.

    am i over complicating it
    i like flexability

    thanks alan

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
    Posts
    4,419

    Default

    Welcome Alan,
    A half dozen Desktop owners have modded Bill Young's spoilboard by adding inserts between his 3" OC dowel alignment holes, and most seem to like it a lot
    That's a LOT of inserts, but I do a lot of protos and one ofs, and for 2 years used it for production....didn't find very much I couldn't clamp
    PITA, but maybe worth it for you?
    Extremely versatile, and by adding new .25" MDF when it gets thin, should last a very long time
    scott
    Attached Images Attached Images
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    58

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by scottp55 View Post
    Welcome Alan,
    A half dozen Desktop owners have modded Bill Young's spoilboard by adding inserts between his 3" OC dowel alignment holes, and most seem to like it a lot
    That's a LOT of inserts, but I do a lot of protos and one ofs, and for 2 years used it for production....didn't find very much I couldn't clamp
    PITA, but maybe worth it for you?
    Extremely versatile, and by adding new .25" MDF when it gets thin, should last a very long time
    scott
    thanks scott.

    this pritty much what im thinking.
    i ordered 2000 inerts.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
    Posts
    4,419

    Default

    Alan,
    These are the one I've used to make 3 spoilboards and recommend;
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KSZ13G/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

    I'd also make sure I had a drill/driver with 5 or more torque settings, and purchase this tool as well. It seats the insert about 1/16" below flush;
    https://www.amazon.com/E-Z-LOK-Drive...7886MCHRWC2FTH
    I have a new cleaned up file with bits/diameters/feeds and speeds/ fences and wedges you see in picture if you want....just email me under my contact info.
    Adding 3/8" dowel holes like on Bill's original is great for alignment, and them sucking them down tight with the connector bolts...things do NOT move
    I like these that Shopbot used in their MakerCrates as they are Allen head/low profile and have a large flange so washers aren't needed. If you order the different lengths in different color finishes, it makes life easier;
    https://www.fastenal.com/products/fa...20Bolts%22%7C~
    scott
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    58

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by scottp55 View Post
    Alan,
    These are the one I've used to make 3 spoilboards and recommend;
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KSZ13G/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

    I'd also make sure I had a drill/driver with 5 or more torque settings, and purchase this tool as well. It seats the insert about 1/16" below flush;
    https://www.amazon.com/E-Z-LOK-Drive...7886MCHRWC2FTH
    I have a new cleaned up file with bits/diameters/feeds and speeds/ fences and wedges you see in picture if you want....just email me under my contact info.
    Adding 3/8" dowel holes like on Bill's original is great for alignment, and them sucking them down tight with the connector bolts...things do NOT move
    I like these that Shopbot used in their MakerCrates as they are Allen head/low profile and have a large flange so washers aren't needed. If you order the different lengths in different color finishes, it makes life easier;
    https://www.fastenal.com/products/fa...20Bolts%22%7C~
    scott
    thanks for the offer scott.
    i will be using metric inserts and bolts because they are way easier to get than imperial.
    im planing to use 20mm allignment holes because i have bench dogs and clamps that suit that

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