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Thread: Walnut Slab

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    4,419

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    WOW....Just makes you want to run your hands over it!
    Great finish sanding!!
    What IS the finish?
    Did you enter a pic into App Data folder...or was it a VERY careful bunch of measurements?
    I think the canning/root cellar is NEAT! The grain and color really helped it there.
    REALLY love this work you're doing!!!
    scott
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Thorp, WI
    Posts
    2,845

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    Hey Scott, thanks.

    The finish is a couple coats of Sherwin-Williams Hi-Build pre cat lacquer dull rubbed effect sheen. Sometimes it may be three coats since the first serves as a sealer for the black ink and then gets sanded down to remove overspray. The dark glaze in the relief as well as the black ink, is applied between coats, so it's then locked in.

    With these, I generally take a photo of the slab (looking straight down while standing on the table of the machine) and then load it into Aspire and scale it to match the size of the slab. This then gives me a canvas to work on for size and placement. I either zero the xy in the center of the file or off some feature on the slab, like a small knot or something. Sometimes I just make the relief in a separate file that has the datum in the center and just zero out the machine on the slab at the place I want the relief to be. It kind of depends on the shape of the slab and what's going on it.
    Scott




  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Palm Coast, FL
    Posts
    193

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    Quote Originally Posted by srwtlc View Post
    I either zero the xy in the center of the file or off some feature on the slab, like a small knot or something. Sometimes I just make the relief in a separate file that has the datum in the center and just zero out the machine on the slab at the place I want the relief to be.
    Thanks! I've been zeroing to the center of the file and it is sometimes tricky to find the center of the slab once it is on the table. Zeroing to a small feature on the slab is a great idea.
    PRS Alpha 96-60 ATC
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  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    Thanks Scott!
    May use those techniques(on a Tiny scale) with some of the firewood I'm playing with
    Need to cut some thicker butterflies, and skim these before taking pictures for Application Data folder.
    Wonderful pieces you've got.
    You did them justice!!
    scott
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    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    SOUTH CENTRAL COLORADO
    Posts
    1,155

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    Let me hi-jack your post to ask for some help regarding a slab. My dining room table is made out of a slab of bubinga about 2.75 inches thick. It has developed a check that is running more than half way through the slab. I have watched this grow over the past few months. I do believe that it will run the entire length of the table. My first thoughts were to use a pipe clamp to squeeze it back in place and glue it, but have yet to try that. It to big to drag it into any shop so i have to try and work on it in the dining room. Anyhow any thoughts or suggestions and thanks for letting me hi-jack this post.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Bell, Florida
    Posts
    409

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    Sounds like its drying the rest of the way. my experience has been if you want to glue it back you need to cut it through the check then glue it. most likely not what you wanted to here, sorry
    Tim
    Tim Lucas Custom Woodworks
    www.TLCW.us

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Thorp, WI
    Posts
    2,845

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    I don't know that you'd have much success with gluing and clamping if it's a wide split. If it's not, then maybe. You could use a hand held router and some butterfly templates to inlay some butterfly keys perpendicular to the crack. If you don't want that on the top, you could again use a template and rout some countertop bolt pockets on the underside to pull it together.
    Scott




  8. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    SOUTH CENTRAL COLORADO
    Posts
    1,155

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    well no matter what i do i need to do it fairly soon or i will have two pieces. It took 4 healthy men to bring it into the house so taking it out of the house is not my favorite idea. Thanks for the responses.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    445

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    You must have a slab which is not dried very well. If it is a progressing crack you are not going to be able to stop it. The forces are too great. Butterflies will, at best, transfer those forces resulting in warpage or another crack. Since it is not a client’s table, I would leave it for a few years if you can and see when and where the crack stops progressing and then assess what to do. After it finally stabilizes then you can butterfly it and maintain the crack if you want. Is it also bowing or warping anywhere?

    I suspect that that the popularity of slabs right now has added some suppliers who don’t have the knowledge,experience, or care to properly dry large thick slabs.

    i once did it a 14’ bubinga slab conference table. The top took less than 1/8” off in the flattening. It was in Houston on the 8th floor of an 11 story building when hurricane Ike ripped the roof off about 8 or 10 years ago. Water dripped on the top for three days and it remained in the building for almost six months of demolition and reconstruction and bowed and warped less tha 1/8”.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Thorp, WI
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    2,845

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    Last of three slices of the same log....
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    Scott




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