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Thread: 3D Wood Good / Bad

  1. #21
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    Mar 2015
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    Scott,

    I know this was a while back, but I just found it searching on "Good Wood". Were you using a 1/16 tapered ball nose with a 5% to 10% step over? I don't get as good a finish as you are and am trying to figure out why. I use a 1/16 tapered ball nose, 16,000 RPM, 10% step over, and I think 100 feed rate. Any suggestions?
    Phil
    BT 32 Standard
    2.2 HP Spindle
    Aspire Sofrware

  2. #22
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    Apr 2013
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    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    Phil,
    What wood are you carving?
    I rarely do anything big enough that a 1/16" TBN gives me all the detail available in the model.
    Half that stuff above was done using an Onsrud 30 degree Engraving bit(in database AS an engraving bit) with either a .005-.01" flat, and a 10% stepover, cutting against the grain. Depending on the size of the model and the wood, running between 1,1,18K to 1.5,1.5,18K and full depth usually if model was less than .45" deep(bits CEL is .5").
    Only using a TBN since I got those little TBN's with .25-1MM Radius so I could finally get the same detail, and very happy with results so far.
    Still playing with those TINY TBN's, but got up to 1.5,1.5,16K at 6% stepover in dense woods running just the finish toolpath, and cheating the Z down using MN as noted above....be Careful, and check the preview to make SURE the bit doesn't jump around the model, and is only cutting the stepover!

    Perhaps try 6%, and a trial of with/against the grain with your wood?
    Speed sounds about right, but listen to the cut and watch the chips, and X,Y,Z Move speeds should be very close to the same.
    I'm NOT production anymore, and most of my stuff has really fine Tiny detail that any sanding removes. Also LAZY and would rather the machine work than me
    Feel free to e-mail me if you want, and I'll take my Onsrud 1/16 TBN out of it's sabbatical and try the same wood as you.

    Others probably have some better tips for you, depending on the size model you're working with the 1/16"th.
    Sorry not more help,
    scott
    Scott Plaisted
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 9
    Maine

  3. #23
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    Apr 2013
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    DARN!!! TRAPPED POST!!!
    Nice long one too Phil
    Basically try testing 6% with and Against the grain....speeds about right if X,Y,Z Move Speeds very close to the same.

    Others WILL have better advice, as I rarely use my 1/16" TBN, as I love detail and my stuff is usually Tiny.

    I mentioned trapped posts to Frank when I got VCP9....BUT nothing seems to have been done
    Royal PITA having posts disappear into limbo!
    Feel free to e-mail me.
    Let's see if this posts.
    scott
    Scott Plaisted
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 9
    Maine

  4. #24
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    Aaaah UNTRAPPED within 5 minutes of a phone call
    Thank you Richard!!!
    scott
    Scott Plaisted
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 9
    Maine

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by bleeth View Post
    Best woods are tight grain hardwoods like maple, cherry, walnut etc.
    Soft woods such as pine, fir have splitting issues in fine detail areas.
    Poplar works but isn't exactly pretty.
    The real "fun" is the finish sanding.
    I'd differ on the poplar, get a nice piece it can be stunning, almost marble like ,,, But getting a nice slab can take some doing.

    Cherry and maple to me are boring for 3D, but yes they do cut nice.
    My top 5 are probably purpleheart, poplar, padauk [the P's have it !] walnut and yellowheart.

    One below is poplar in a walnut blank.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Doug

  6. #26
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    Mar 2015
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    I have been trying a few different things. Some carving and some more like signs.At this time most end up as the top of a box or the face of a clock or shelf.
    150 Clock Bubinga 2.jpg
    Shelf Butterfly 1.jpg
    Butterfly Box.jpg
    Phil
    BT 32 Standard
    2.2 HP Spindle
    Aspire Sofrware

  7. #27
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    That stuff looks Great Phil!
    Is it the amount of finishing time after it comes off the machine you're having the problem with?
    For kicks and giggles, try a small test with a lower stepover and against the grain like I do?
    scott
    Scott Plaisted
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 9
    Maine

  8. #28
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    Mar 2015
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    Yes, it is the sanding after if comes out of the machine. I need to buy stock in Dremel tools LOL.
    I usually go at a 45 degree angle to the grain. I will try the smaller step over of 5% and cross grain instead. I also set plunge rate = feed rate.Thanks for the advise.
    I have some V-Carving of letters that I am planning in the near future on a concept for a new product for Christmas and occasional gifts. I know its a little late for Christmas, so thankfully this is not how I make a living.
    I may not do any 3D carving for a while. When I do I'll post a picture and let you know how it went.

    Thanks again
    Phil
    BT 32 Standard
    2.2 HP Spindle
    Aspire Sofrware

  9. #29
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    Phil,
    Several times I've run circular models with an offset finishing toolpath....and the worst of the finish was always at 45 degrees to the grain...so maybe that was part of the problem?
    Maybe try 2 small samples...one with, and one against the grain...and leave unfinished in shop as a reminder
    Happy Holidays!
    scott
    Scott Plaisted
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 9
    Maine

  10. #30
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    Mar 2015
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    Sounds like a great idea. I will run a few small sample carvings of a butterfly on the same piece of maple or cherry to keep the variables to a minimum. I'll do one with the grain, one at 45 degrees and one across the grain. I will use a speed of 17,000 rpm, a plunge and feed rate of 60 and a 5% step over rate on each. This should be interesting.

    Thanks again
    Phil
    BT 32 Standard
    2.2 HP Spindle
    Aspire Sofrware

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