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Thread: Blanket Box

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Troy, OHIO
    Posts
    87

    Default Blanket Box

    A while back I posted a question about getting the best finish when carving. I made this blanket box for my wife for Christmas. The panels are curly white maple and the inlays are purple heart. I carved a heart and doves into the purple heart inlays. I used 18000 RPM, 100 IPM in both the feed and plunges, and a 7% step over. I set the tool path direction perpendicular to the grain. I have attached 3 pictures.One of the box, one of the finished sanded carving, and one of the carving before sanding.Any suggesting on getting it better before sanding would be appreciated.
    Blanket Cabinet.jpg Purple Heart Inlay Pre Sanding 1.jpgPurple Hart Inlay 1.jpg
    Phil
    BT 32 Standard
    2.2 HP Spindle
    Aspire Sofrware

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Bell, Florida
    Posts
    409

    Default

    Beautiful !! Did you put a tray inside? I bet she Loves it!
    Tim Lucas Custom Woodworks
    www.TLCW.us

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
    Posts
    4,419

    Default

    BEAUTIFUL job Phil!!
    What bit was used?
    Was the model brought IN at max resolution(50X slower), and did the edges appear really pixelated?
    I cut a free model of flags by Todd Bailey way back, and cut with the grain the first time, but on the Curly Maple, the fuzzies were so bad that I cut it again .02" deeper against the grain. It was much better, but still the extreme pixeled edge in the model caused some minor problems.Think I was cutting at 1,1,18K, but that was a 1F Onsrud engraving bit with a .01"tip
    Then cut the top flag against the grain ONCE with the same exact file.
    Was the cutter sharp and clean?
    Haven't done a Purpleheart 3D, but with 2 and 2.5D it cuts a lot like Bloodwood, and I would have thought a 3D would have cut as smooth against the grain as most of the denser exotics do
    You'll get some Brownie points for that box!
    scott
    Attached Images Attached Images
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Delray Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,708

    Default

    Surprised purple heart would be that fuzzy.
    Couple thoughts:
    Have you done mechanical service/pinions/roller checks etc. lately?
    Bit quality to start with and current condition?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Troy, OHIO
    Posts
    87

    Default

    I did not put a tray in it. That would be a nice touch though. I may add one later as a surprise.

    I used a .25 end mill to rough cut leaving .020 material and then a .062 ball nose bit to finish it. I have used it to make 15 to 20 carvings of this size. The fuzz you see is really about as good as I have ever gotten with my setup. The bit does not appear to be dull.

    I am not sure that I understand about the resolution. Is this the resolution set in Aspire? If so, I did not check it because I did not know that its setting impacted the carving. I will check and let you know.

    I have not done a mechanical service/pinions/roller check. I am embarrassed to say that I am not sure how to do this. Any tips? I have a friend that is a retired CNC machinist, I'll ask him to drop by to take a look at it and the sharpness of the bit.

    Thanks to all of you for the inputs. :-)

    Phil
    Phil
    BT 32 Standard
    2.2 HP Spindle
    Aspire Sofrware

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Marietta, Ga.
    Posts
    324

    Default

    Model Resolution.jpg Model resolution is a choice when you first set up your job. There are additional choices if you hold down, I think, the shift key. Check on the Vectric Forum for additional information about this feature. This could make a big difference in edge quality when you are using such a small bit...joe

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Delray Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,708

    Default

    There are docs on keeping your machine tight.
    It basically amounts to checking all nuts and bolts, making sure your pinions are tight AND not worn as well as properly greased, etc. Also, of course due to its purpose, making sure all that should be square/level is square/level. An SB is like any other piece of equipment.
    If you ignore it's upkeep it will degrade on you. You are after doing some very cool work. You wouldn't want to shave with a dull razor, right? Buddies have the added challenge of making sure the bed rollers are good and aligned Lot's of info on the forum from those who own them as well as docs from SB or SB techs.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
    Posts
    4,419

    Default

    Yep...You have to set up the job for Max Resolution BEFORE you import your model,AND make the work area as small as feasible for the best result.
    http://forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=18209

    http://support.vectric.com/tips-and-...hp?video_id=10
    Sounds like everything else as far as cutting is within reason
    The bit may still be sharp, but it really depends on the wood/hours/and whether you had it dialed in to avoid excess heat on your first cuts.
    My bits are cleaned with a brass brush after every cut with BladeCote to remove any residue, and seems to help with any buildup during the cut.
    https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-BladeC.../dp/B00DSW7DWK
    Did a lot of regular hand routing with the house, and had a job cutting an arrowhead venting design in 1,000 linear feet of 1 foot wide 3/8" cedar ply and was going through 3/4" bits like crazy....DriCote(now Bladecoat) made bits last 3 time longer, with better cut...so I just kept the habit with the Desktop..a can lasts a LONG time, and the back of my brain says it's helping cut quality on hardwoods
    Our machines are quite different,so can't help there.
    scott
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

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