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Thread: Setting up shopbot link

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Lacrosse WI
    Posts
    31

    Default Setting up shopbot link

    I am trying to setup my shopbot link for cutting 1/2" plywood and 3/4" plywood. I have 2 spindles the z has a 3/8" spiral and the a has a 5mm for drilling. I am lost right now and could use some help. Also where do I tell it if I want to zero off the material or the bed. Thanks much for any help

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Lacrosse WI
    Posts
    31

    Default

    I'm also wondering how to post pictures on here

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Lacrosse WI
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Sorry for all the questions but I have a couple more now. I want to do 2 passes on all of the cuts. Do I set that up by choosing max penetration less than my materials or will that set how deep that cutter will only go? I read in the manual about a double pass but I don't have that option on the screen. I also see the skin pass option has max part size which I have set to 10"^2 for area and 3" for max part width or length.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Bell, Florida
    Posts
    406

    Default

    Good morning,
    I am not at my system right now but will try to remember.
    The max penetration is how deep it should cut in one pass.

    Tim
    Tim Lucas Custom Woodworks
    www.TLCW.us

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Lacrosse WI
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Sounds good thanks Tim

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Diamond Lake, WA
    Posts
    1,596

    Default

    If you go into Settings in SBLink you will see a section titles Perimeter Cut (Outline). This is where you will set your cutout parameters.

    Mine are set to Climb
    Checked Perform all through cuts last
    Checked Run opposite direction

    These will interact with your tool parameters to determine how far the initial cutout pass (chain) is done. It normally leaves about 1/32" for the final cutout. I set my initial cuts to be climb cuts. This pushes the bit AWAY from your cut line. The final Conventional cut pull the bit to the line. Since the final pass is cutting so little material, the bit and machine flex is very minimal making your final pass very accurate.

    I cut all my plywood with a 1/4" compression bit. Max depth per pass in my tool database is .375". So for plywood 1/2" and thicker, the machine will take two climb cut passes and then the conventional cut path.

    SBLink sets zero from the table surface. I've got SBLink running right now and I can't see anywhere you can tell it to ZZero to something other then the machine bed. This method makes joinery much more accurate since material thickness can vary. I have a location on my table with a piece of aluminum (a small piece of the ZZero plate that came with my machine) that the spindle jumps to to Z zero the bit automatically after each manual tool change. I have some code to have the spindle move to a specified location so I can change the bit. Once the bit is changed I hit enter and walk away. The code has my Z Zero routine in it. Works great since I can't afford an ATC.
    Don
    Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks, LLC
    www.dlwoodworks.com
    ***********************************
    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece; But to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, bank accounts empty, credit cards maxed out, defiantly shouting "Geronimo"!

    If you make something idiot proof, all they do is create a better idiot.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Lacrosse WI
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Thanks that helps to see what other people do. I use a 3/8" bit for outline and dadoes in the z axis and have a 5mm in the a axis.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Lacrosse WI
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Right now I'm setup to zero off top of material. I am wondering how to change that to go off the bed so I don't have to rezero when I change material thickness. Does it have something to do with the spoilboard thickness. I have that set to 0

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Bell, Florida
    Posts
    406

    Default

    I don't think you can set it to zero from the spoil board just the material
    Tim Lucas Custom Woodworks
    www.TLCW.us

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Memphis TN
    Posts
    691

    Default

    You really should get into the habit of always zeroing anytime you start a new job and certainly anytime you change bits. The only exception is if you have an automatic tool changer, in which case the machine zeros for you.

    It's really simple to zero to the top of material. I never use the plate method. That's too cumbersome and often leads to chaos (forget the clip ever?). Instead, I have a bright light mounted on a wall near the machine and use the light to determine when I've lowered the bit to the material. I use the "K" to get it close, then "D" of .01 to bring it the rest of the way. Been doing that for years and have never lost a clip! The only time I have trouble using this method is with clear plastic. In that case, I put a sticky note on the material and zero to that.

    You can zero to the spoil board, no problem. Where you zero is controlled by the program that generates the toolpath. I virtually always zero from the material. That way, I never get confused as to which method I'm using. Start mixing them up and you'll end up with a large gouge in your spoil board and probably a broken bit or two as well.
    ShopBot Details:
    PRS Alpha 96x60x12
    4hp Spindle
    12" indexer
    Aspire
    Rhino

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