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Thread: New 4G controller box

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Lakin KS
    Posts
    316

    Default New 4G controller box

    OK, I received the "new" 4G controller box from Brady. Thank you Brady, it was extremely well packed and I have got it "put together", but I'm, kind of stumped as to where/which input-output terminals I am supposed to wire the limit switches to. Also, I have never been able to get my Z-Zero plate to work. It came with the machine but the guy I bought it from said he was never able to get it to work either.

    Can/Will someone supply me with a wiring diagram of the input-output blocks so I can hook this up right? I thought I had a diagram, but can't seem to find it.
    Tom Bachman,
    Drafting/Woodworking Instructor RETIRED!
    Lakin, Kansas

    2001 PRT4896
    https://i.imgur.com/xWEFfDk.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,383

    Default

    The prox switches are wired this way on mine the Brown wires from the X and Y go to the +24 volt lug the blue wires from X and Y go to ground and the black wire from X goes to number 2 input and the black wire from the X goes to 3 input. The Z plate the white wire goes to ground and the black wire goes to 1 input.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Lakin KS
    Posts
    316

    Default

    Jerry, that part of it, It doesn't have +24v lug....one shows +12V the other +5

    Tom Bachman,
    Drafting/Woodworking Instructor RETIRED!
    Lakin, Kansas

    2001 PRT4896
    https://i.imgur.com/xWEFfDk.jpg

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Lakin KS
    Posts
    316

    Default

    I just realized I have all those wires on an input block....is that right? The red wires hooked to the +12 are the ones from the prox switches
    Tom Bachman,
    Drafting/Woodworking Instructor RETIRED!
    Lakin, Kansas

    2001 PRT4896
    https://i.imgur.com/xWEFfDk.jpg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    2,383

    Default

    I just checked my box and I see that I was looking at the wiring for a different unit. You may want to call shopbot and double check. I had 4 different control boxes on 3 different shopbots and they will help on any of them even if you are not the original owner.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    iBILD Solutions - Southern NJ
    Posts
    7,986

    Default

    Tom - Glad you got it. As previously mentioned, you could have removed the input block from your 3G and put it right onto the 4G in the same input block area. No need to re-wire. Don't forget that ShopBot Docs has manuals and guides for wiring etc.

    In regards to your Zzero plate, there are 2 wires that are important (but a total of 3). Gnd & input 1. It is important, especially if you have a router that you have a good ground between the collet and the machine. Often times the ground will be broken from the brushes being worn - and there will be no continuity. This is why SB shipped an alligator clip that shares the same slot as the ground in the Wago connector near the router. You can always add a clip yourself. Input 1, sends out a 5v signal looking for ground. When it touches ground, input 1 lights up. A meter with continuity setting can be helpful tracking down where your ground isn't continuous/broken etc. The 3rd wire at the Wago near the router is for the probe. The version you have will determine what voltage it receives.

    Be sure to run the TS command to set up your limit switches. Put the bit @ 0,0 and then run TS. Tell it you have limit switches and a Zzero plate. Make sure to click on 'I'm Done' at the end or it won't save the settings and you'll have to do it again.

    You didn't mention what motors you have on your tool. Assuming your tool has 3.6:1 motors all around with 25T pinions on the XY and 20T on the Z, the default 4G unit values should be correct. If you have a different motor ratio you'll have to change your VU so the tool will go the correct distance.

    Go back and read my notes for the other aspects of the installation regarding the e-stop, loading the SB USB drivers etc. You're gonna love it when you get it going.

    Jerry - thanks for the attempt at helping but I'll take it from here.

    -B
    High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Lakin KS
    Posts
    316

    Default

    I'm closer....I think.....I've got the drivers loaded Took three times but they are there. I have communication with the control box. But now when I open SB3 I get an emergency stop error on input 4 and tells me to check it. No idea where that came from. Also, besides the flashing red light for the Estop on 4 I have, what looks like, an exclamation point on the #3 input light. Can't get past the Estop issue to see what is going on there.

    Brady, I have PK296A1A SG3.6 motors on the x axis and PK29901AA motors on the Y and Z. The X motors have a larger pinion gear (don't remember how many teeth, while the Y and Z have the smaller pinions that came with the machine originally.

    Still not sure whether I have the wires in the correct places or not. I've got a call in to Shopbot support, but had to leave a message, hopefully they will call back soon. I'm getting pretty frustrated.
    Tom Bachman,
    Drafting/Woodworking Instructor RETIRED!
    Lakin, Kansas

    2001 PRT4896
    https://i.imgur.com/xWEFfDk.jpg

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Thorp, WI
    Posts
    2,845

    Default

    I'm sure Brady will pop in here soon with answers to your questions, since he knows 'this' box, but I take it that you are upgrading an older machine which likely has a normal open E-stop. Go to VN in sb3 and check to see what 'Switch #4 Stop Type" is set for. If it's NC, change it to NO.
    Scott




  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    iBILD Solutions - Southern NJ
    Posts
    7,986

    Default

    Tom,
    Scott is correct with the VN setting. Remember my instructions mentioning when you picked your machine to use the one that says "Old_Stop" in the name? This is because the old stop switches are normally open. Newer ones are normally closed. It expects a normally closed - and since it is normally open, it thinks the e-stop is ON. TO confirm this, just press the e-stop and see if that error goes away. If so, just change the VN setting and be sure to unlatch/turn off the e-stop when done. You may have to close and reopen SB3 when done for it to work.

    Since your motors are different than the usual arrangement, you'll have to modify your unit values. Personally, I'd consider getting some good used motors to get some gear reduction on the ones that are direct drive...I have some here if interested. Certainly not trying to sell you anything, but it should have 3.6:1s at the very least on that tool.

    In SB3, Type in VU
    The Unit Values for the X are going to be the default 4G numbers @ 1833.465 (IF you are running 25T pinions)
    Find the matching unit value for your motor/pinion tooth count combination here: Unit Value Chart and enter them into the Y and Z fields in the VU fill in sheet.

    In terms of the 'wires being the right place' the wiring is identical to the 3G with the exception of the 2 black wires for the limits. I don't know what limit switches you have so let's focus on just what you need to get the tool running - ONLY the e-stop needs to be connected in order for SB3 to move the tool. A short piece of wire in Input 4 and Gnd will emulate the e-stop...but at your own risk! This way you can drive around the tool....but the VU should be set first because the tool won't move the correct distances until you do.

    E-stop:
    Put 1 of the 2 wires into Input 4
    Put the other wire in Gnd (doesn't matter which one)

    Zzero plate:
    Black goes to Input 1
    Green or White goes to Gnd

    For the limits, I don't know what version you have. I am going to assume that they are the early rectangular ones. They ran on 5v+, there are 3 wires for each limit:

    Put Both Reds to 5v+
    Put Both Greens to Gnd
    Put the Black wire from the X axis prox switch in Input 2
    Put the Black wire from the Y axis prox switch in Input 3
    (3G and earlier systems did NOT have discrete limit switches. Both went to input 3 - but in order to run the newest homing routine, X needs to be in Input 2 and Y in Input 3)

    That's it - there's no other wiring to do...

    Be patient - there's no learning without at least a little chaos and confusion in life.

    -B
    High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Lakin KS
    Posts
    316

    Default

    Thanks, both of you, for helping me through this.

    Brady, when I first opened up the setup, the "old" option wasn't there, or didn't know what I was looking at, so I chose 9648 PRT from the options that were presented, that one seemed most likely my machine. I'm assuming, maybe in error, that I can go into the VN command and change that.

    I will also say that I don't think my limit switches have worked since I got the machine home and setup. the one on the X axis looks like it got caught on the carriage at some point (before I acquired the machine) and tore the wire loose and the switch itself appears to be broken. I've never tried to repair it (maybe stupid on my part).

    So by looking at the picture I posted, does it appear that I have it wired correctly? Most of the wires go to the INPUT side....correct?

    The Pinions on the X axis are 25 tooth with the 3.6 motors As for Motors I still have one more of the PK296 3.6, which I had planned on installing on the Y axis but had a problem with mounting it. I'll have to look at the pinions on the Y and Z axis to see what number of teeth are on them..... I also assume that my Y & Z motors are 1:1.

    Funny, I was just telling my two granddaughters, that are spending the week us, that you continue to learn throughout your entire life....I'm getting quite an education this week.
    Tom Bachman,
    Drafting/Woodworking Instructor RETIRED!
    Lakin, Kansas

    2001 PRT4896
    https://i.imgur.com/xWEFfDk.jpg

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