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Thread: New 4G controller box

  1. #11
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    Sep 2013
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    Lakin KS
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    IT'S ALIVE! Making the change to the VN took care of the error.
    Ok, I have a moving machine. With the settings VU X as you thought and Y/Z 636.6198 it moves as it should.......well, almost. I also have a Z-Zero plate that WORKS! YES!

    Now just one little issue.... The X axis isn't moving smoothly like it did before the change.... a little jumpy and grindy sounding. Not that it was perfectly smooth before, but it didn't jump and grind around like it does now. What would be your thoughts on this? Should I go ahead and acquire (from you maybe?) another 3.6 motor for the Z and replace it and the Y?

    I was a bit wrong on the limit switch the one on the X is gone completely. Here's a picture of the one on the Y Axis. Probably need to get another one for the X.... ideas there?

    Tom Bachman,
    Drafting/Woodworking Instructor RETIRED!
    Lakin, Kansas

    2001 PRT4896
    https://i.imgur.com/xWEFfDk.jpg

  2. #12
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    Jan 2004
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    iBILD Solutions - Southern NJ
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    Tom,
    Yes - you are correct in assuming that you can invert the e-stop config using the VN command.

    I would leave the prox switches disconnected to be sure nothing gets shorted out. In the meantime I can have a look - I may have a vintage set of prox switches that are new old stock.

    Correct - ALL the connections are inputs. ZERO outputs.

    FYI - stock config was 3.6:1 motor with 25T on XY axes and 20T on the Z. However there were MANY variations ranging from 1:1 to 10:1 motors and pinions from 18 to 36T. Just use the chart when you get a tooth count and motor ratio.

    No doubt about that....the learning never stops!

    -B

    Edit: Check all motor connections and make sure nothing is lose. The main reasons these tools get messed up and don't run right is because the wiring is either sloppy or not with proper strain relief. I'll check back in the morning about the grinding thing...It could be your unit values are not correct. Use a tape and check distances. If they are off, then the UV for that axis isn't right.
    High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com

  3. #13
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    Sep 2013
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    Lakin KS
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    It looks as though all the measurements are correct, X and Y anyway. I didn't check the Z, but will tomorrow.
    Tom Bachman,
    Drafting/Woodworking Instructor RETIRED!
    Lakin, Kansas

    2001 PRT4896
    https://i.imgur.com/xWEFfDk.jpg

  4. #14
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    Mar 2013
    Location
    Memphis TN
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    1,014

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Bachman View Post
    IT'S ALIVE! Making the change to the VN took care of the error.
    Ok, I have a moving machine. With the settings VU X as you thought and Y/Z 636.6198 it moves as it should.......well, almost. I also have a Z-Zero plate that WORKS! YES!

    Now just one little issue.... The X axis isn't moving smoothly like it did before the change.... a little jumpy and grindy sounding. Not that it was perfectly smooth before, but it didn't jump and grind around like it does now. What would be your thoughts on this? Should I go ahead and acquire (from you maybe?) another 3.6 motor for the Z and replace it and the Y?

    I was a bit wrong on the limit switch the one on the X is gone completely. Here's a picture of the one on the Y Axis. Probably need to get another one for the X.... ideas there?

    I look at that picture and come to the conclusion that all the time I spend cleaning really is worth it! My machine still looks brand new after five years.
    ShopBot Details:
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  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    iBILD Solutions - Southern NJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by coryatjohn View Post
    I look at that picture and come to the conclusion that all the time I spend cleaning really is worth it! My machine still looks brand new after five years.
    John - Agreed. The powdercoating on these machines is really good. My 17 year old tool still looks good after all these years. Just vacuuming it off with a fuzzy brush gets most of the stuff off - mineral spirits or denatured (not acetone or MEK!) for grease, then automotive instant detailer on a microfiber cloth (it has a little wax in it) - makes the whole machine shine like new. There's no reason not to wipe the machine down at least a few times a year. It literally just takes minutes to do & you feel proud when you're done....but having visited hundreds of shops over the years as a tech, most are never cleaned and this makes maintenance difficult to do. Take care of your tools and they will take care of you!

    -B
    High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com

  6. #16
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    Sep 2013
    Location
    Lakin KS
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    Sorry, I actually try to keep my machine as clean as I can. And no, it doesn't look brand new, but I bought it a little over a year ago and I don't think it was well cared for before. Not much I can do about that.
    Tom Bachman,
    Drafting/Woodworking Instructor RETIRED!
    Lakin, Kansas

    2001 PRT4896
    https://i.imgur.com/xWEFfDk.jpg

  7. #17
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    Tom - how's it going?

    -B
    High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Lakin KS
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    Haven't gotten out there to check on things yet....been busy doing a few other things. Headed out pretty quick.
    Tom Bachman,
    Drafting/Woodworking Instructor RETIRED!
    Lakin, Kansas

    2001 PRT4896
    https://i.imgur.com/xWEFfDk.jpg

  9. #19
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    Sep 2013
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    Lakin KS
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    Ok, the measurements are correct. All the connections are good and tight, but I did notice that the Z motor is "warm" without even running the axis...ok I ran it up 3" and back down to 1". Thinking maybe that motor has an issue? Beings I have one more of the PK296 3.6 motors left, swapping it out with the Y and take the Y and put it on Z. I can't figure out how to mount the 296 motor on the Z as it needs to bolt from the back side. I'm sure you have seen this and have some sort of work around.
    Tom Bachman,
    Drafting/Woodworking Instructor RETIRED!
    Lakin, Kansas

    2001 PRT4896
    https://i.imgur.com/xWEFfDk.jpg

  10. #20
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    Jan 2004
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    iBILD Solutions - Southern NJ
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    I would run 3.6's all around for sure. Warm is fine with steppers although most with this config run cool. Not sure about that 1:1 motor though.

    You need to remove the 3/8" stop bolt from the back side of the Z tower, the release the springs. Then you can pull the entire t-rail with router still attached out the bottom to get to the motor bolts. You can't get it out the top without removing the lower spring perch and springs. If they are the original 'constant force' flat springs, it's more involved. Coil springs are easier to remove/install. Take a piece of house electrical wire and twist up a loop for releasing and replacing the springs.

    Keep in mind that depending on how old this machine is, you might have to drill some holes to get the 3.6:1 motor onto the Z tower because it has a different hole pattern than the 1:1. Play around...you can open up a can of worms messing with the V-rollers to get the gears lashed in/meshing properly - know off the bat that getting the lash right without messing with the v-rollers means installing and removing the t-rail until the gears mesh the proper way. Too tight and you'll kill the t-rail too loose and you'll have a sloppy axis. It ain't rocket science...but it's important to pay attention and use your mechanical skills here..and it's worth it because 1:1 is not correct for this machine. You will not have the torque you need for cutting nor the level of resolution needed for decent 3D or v-carving.

    -B
    High Definition 3D Laser Scanning Services - Advanced ShopBot CNC Training and Consultation - Vectric Custom Video Training IBILD.com

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