New Shopbotter here, with a stalling problem?

[pro70z28]

Quick eyes Brady!
I also would recommend stripping that computer ala "Black Viper" (do a web search) and making sure your screen saver is off, automatic updates is off, no anti-virus, etc.
When I upgraded my old PRT with a custom 4g controller jog hit 12 ips. Cut max for plywood, etc. was 4ips.

I learned the hard way about screen saver and sleep mode. Puts the shopbot to sleep mid job also.

[mercuru049]

Since I now know I have a PRT-3g, but I have a PRS Control Box, when I install the SB3 software, what should I pick for it to use a configuration file? I plan to do a complete reinstall on machine and want to make sure I'm setting it up right.

Thanks!

[jerry_stanek]

Also what version of Shopbot software are you running

[mercuru049]

Also what version of Shopbot software are you running

SB3. I downloaded the newest software when I set it up. But I remember when I was going through the setup it wanted me to select the machine I had. I believe I had the right one, but then I also remember something not being right and me reloading it. I think it auto selected that time? So this begs 2 questions. 1. Which machine should I tell it I have? PRT or PRS? It's a PRT machine with a PRS controller I believe. Also, I notice that not matter what I set the Speed settings to, it doesn't seem to adjust the speed at which the machine moves?

[Brady Watson]

Since I now know I have a PRT-3g, but I have a PRS Control Box, when I install the SB3 software, what should I pick for it to use a configuration file? I plan to do a complete reinstall on machine and want to make sure I'm setting it up right.

Thanks!

You should be running v3.6.46 with a 4G control on that tool. If input 4/e-stop light flashes invert the e-stop from normally closed to normally open with the VN command. Be 100% SURE to run UI and install the firmware that matches the v3.6.46 front end or it won't run right. You should pick the config file that matches a PRT 4G with old stop (if that option is there & you have a normally open e-stop). You must install the firmware any time you change a version of SB3.

FYI - Factory spec on the turnbuckle/springs is 3.5 turns out from when the spring starts to expand. That is the correct tension. Consider making new mounts for the X&Y axes as those angle iron ones suck. 1/4 or 3/8" aluminum ones will be fine & will make the tool tighter and less sloppy when it comes to gear mesh - plus pinions will last longer. I would go so far as to make PRS style mounts where there is no spring and the flat mounting plate is just rammed up into the rack and tightened down with at least 2 bolts. This involves some fabbing and drilling etc. I believe the springs were present to make up for sloppy manufacturing, steel tolerance and slip-shod assembly on the customer's end. You can try calling SB to see if they still make the PRT 4G/Alpha spec motor mounts for the X&Y if you don't want to fab anything. They are way better than the ones you have.

Also...Gear racks must be lubricated with grease...not WD40, not silicone spray - actual grease - any you have is fine. A small DOT is all that is needed every 6" or so and run it back and forth - and wipe it down & off anything that doesn't have teeth. Steel on steel without lube will smoke a set of pinions in only a few weeks - and while they're consumables on the machine, they aren't as cheap as they used to be. Worn pinions will kill the edge quality on plastics, aluminum and any other dense material.

-B

[Brady Watson]

You can get an idea of the 4G/Alpha spec XY mounts I mentioned looking at the first pic in this thread: http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/sho...om-steel-table

Also note the gantry is PRTAlpha spec, which is essentially identical to the 4G (no more unistrut) except for the stepper motors.

-B

[mercuru049]

You should be running v3.6.46 with a 4G control on that tool. If input 4/e-stop light flashes invert the e-stop from normally closed to normally open with the VN command. Be 100% SURE to run UI and install the firmware that matches the v3.6.46 front end or it won't run right. You should pick the config file that matches a PRT 4G with old stop (if that option is there & you have a normally open e-stop). You must install the firmware any time you change a version of SB3.

FYI - Factory spec on the turnbuckle/springs is 3.5 turns out from when the spring starts to expand. That is the correct tension. Consider making new mounts for the X&Y axes as those angle iron ones suck. 1/4 or 3/8" aluminum ones will be fine & will make the tool tighter and less sloppy when it comes to gear mesh - plus pinions will last longer. I would go so far as to make PRS style mounts where there is no spring and the flat mounting plate is just rammed up into the rack and tightened down with at least 2 bolts. This involves some fabbing and drilling etc. I believe the springs were present to make up for sloppy manufacturing, steel tolerance and slip-shod assembly on the customer's end. You can try calling SB to see if they still make the PRT 4G/Alpha spec motor mounts for the X&Y if you don't want to fab anything. They are way better than the ones you have.

Also...Gear racks must be lubricated with grease...not WD40, not silicone spray - actual grease - any you have is fine. A small DOT is all that is needed every 6" or so and run it back and forth - and wipe it down & off anything that doesn't have teeth. Steel on steel without lube will smoke a set of pinions in only a few weeks - and while they're consumables on the machine, they aren't as cheap as they used to be. Worn pinions will kill the edge quality on plastics, aluminum and any other dense material.

-B

Great information here, thank you!

[mercuru049]

You should be running v3.6.46 with a 4G control on that tool. If input 4/e-stop light flashes invert the e-stop from normally closed to normally open with the VN command. Be 100% SURE to run UI and install the firmware that matches the v3.6.46 front end or it won't run right. You should pick the config file that matches a PRT 4G with old stop (if that option is there & you have a normally open e-stop). You must install the firmware any time you change a version of SB3.

FYI - Factory spec on the turnbuckle/springs is 3.5 turns out from when the spring starts to expand. That is the correct tension. Consider making new mounts for the X&Y axes as those angle iron ones suck. 1/4 or 3/8" aluminum ones will be fine & will make the tool tighter and less sloppy when it comes to gear mesh - plus pinions will last longer. I would go so far as to make PRS style mounts where there is no spring and the flat mounting plate is just rammed up into the rack and tightened down with at least 2 bolts. This involves some fabbing and drilling etc. I believe the springs were present to make up for sloppy manufacturing, steel tolerance and slip-shod assembly on the customer's end. You can try calling SB to see if they still make the PRT 4G/Alpha spec motor mounts for the X&Y if you don't want to fab anything. They are way better than the ones you have.

Also...Gear racks must be lubricated with grease...not WD40, not silicone spray - actual grease - any you have is fine. A small DOT is all that is needed every 6" or so and run it back and forth - and wipe it down & off anything that doesn't have teeth. Steel on steel without lube will smoke a set of pinions in only a few weeks - and while they're consumables on the machine, they aren't as cheap as they used to be. Worn pinions will kill the edge quality on plastics, aluminum and any other dense material.

-B

When I installed the SB3 software the first time, I remember that it did update some firmware, it did at least one separate download for firmware. Yes, my EStop is reversed. I didn't know how to reverse it in the sofware and basically just depressed the EStop to get the machine running ( I know I know, shame on me ). Will be working on some of what you have said here when I get home. Hoping to not have to mahine new brackets right away though, but I appreciate the upgrade advice. Will only dot hat if I have to. Also appreciate the 3.5 turns, now I can have a better idea if I'm tensioned properly.

[Brady Watson]

The firmware is never automatically installed. You are probably thinking of the USB drivers. You *must* install it manually. It won't hurt to load it again anyway via UI command.

Smart thinking with the estop. Just type in the VN command and change the estop from NC to NO. There are actually 4 wires on the estop (2 are hidden because they were cut back) - you *could* rewire it NC by just wiring the 2 that are hidden - your choice.

-B

[mercuru049]

You should be running v3.6.46 with a 4G control on that tool. If input 4/e-stop light flashes invert the e-stop from normally closed to normally open with the VN command. Be 100% SURE to run UI and install the firmware that matches the v3.6.46 front end or it won't run right. You should pick the config file that matches a PRT 4G with old stop (if that option is there & you have a normally open e-stop). You must install the firmware any time you change a version of SB3.

FYI - Factory spec on the turnbuckle/springs is 3.5 turns out from when the spring starts to expand. That is the correct tension. Consider making new mounts for the X&Y axes as those angle iron ones suck. 1/4 or 3/8" aluminum ones will be fine & will make the tool tighter and less sloppy when it comes to gear mesh - plus pinions will last longer. I would go so far as to make PRS style mounts where there is no spring and the flat mounting plate is just rammed up into the rack and tightened down with at least 2 bolts. This involves some fabbing and drilling etc. I believe the springs were present to make up for sloppy manufacturing, steel tolerance and slip-shod assembly on the customer's end. You can try calling SB to see if they still make the PRT 4G/Alpha spec motor mounts for the X&Y if you don't want to fab anything. They are way better than the ones you have.

Also...Gear racks must be lubricated with grease...not WD40, not silicone spray - actual grease - any you have is fine. A small DOT is all that is needed every 6" or so and run it back and forth - and wipe it down & off anything that doesn't have teeth. Steel on steel without lube will smoke a set of pinions in only a few weeks - and while they're consumables on the machine, they aren't as cheap as they used to be. Worn pinions will kill the edge quality on plastics, aluminum and any other dense material.

-B

So, I tried this and no dice. I've installed/uninstalled a bunch trying to get config to work. The closest I've gotten is when it loads, it ays "Shopbot seems present but is not responding...." and wants me to keep trying other ports. It's set to correc tport and I've let it search too. I pulled that and put the newest version of the software up and it runs fine (except for stalling) Also noticed though that on the newest version of software, it doesn't seem to matter what I set the speed to, it has no effect. Thoughts/