Wrenches for the spindle nut?

[GeneMpls]

I finally got around to running my BT48 in anger this weekend, building a spoilboard with T-tracks for holddowns. I did a few bit changes and the first thing I noticed was the odd wrench for the nut- why wouldn't they [whoever designed it] do an offset angle so you could flip it and get a different bite on the nut- similar to every open end wrench I have ever seen? I have a Wazer on order and the first project for it will be cutting a wrench with an offset. Just an observation- all my other collet nuts were actually nuts. Is there something I am missing? GeneDSC00924.jpg

[knight_toolworks]

this was my solution. Years ago I had bits slipping and i was told I was tightening too tight. so i got the torque wrench and saw I was not tightening enough. then I glued the other wrench into a much better handle.

[bleeth]

The spanner SB supplied for spindle nuts used to be more heavy duty. You can likely order one elsewhere online that is nicely cast instead of cheap cut.
I always set up my wrenches so when it came to the final tightening I was squeezing them together one handed. Stayed tight that way.

[jTr]

I'm with Dave on this one - two handed squeeze, as I'd learned on hand held routers years ago makes for a solid tightening and "knuckle-safe" loosening. As for source, try Shars. They have an ebay store with collets, nuts, and wrenches. The wrench I bought from them was twice the thickness of factory supplied wrench. Machining of all components I've purchased from them far exceeds any other brands I've tried. Great quality, great pricing, as others here have testified in the past as well.

Gene;
As for the angle of collet nut wrench, the spindle wrench has that covered, so If I feel the need to change position slightly, I just flip it instead of the nut spanner. In 5+ years, I just haven't experienced the frustration of using the wrenches you seem to be having. Not sure what else to suggest beyond a custom made handle courtesy of your local metalworker?

jeff

[GeneMpls]

I am a one hand squeeze guy too. It just struck me as odd that it was designed that way. I find flipping the spindle wrench to be harder, to find the flats. First world problems?

[tri4sale]

I am a one hand squeeze guy too.

that's how they taught it in the 2 day class at ShopBot I took, basically don't over tighten, that all you really need to do is the one hand squeeze.

[coryatjohn]

that's how they taught it in the 2 day class at ShopBot I took, basically don't over tighten, that all you really need to do is the one hand squeeze.

I took that same class and got misled. When they said "Don't over tighten" I think they meant Arnold Schwarzenegger type folks. I ruined some wood and one spoil board over that idea. Sure, don't kill it but the collet nut needs something like 77 ft/lbs. of torque to be set correctly (ER25). That's more than a gentle squeeze. For the average non-body builder type, the one hand squeeze should be about maximum effort. Less than optimum and the end mill may migrate out of the collet and cause very unattractive gouges in the work and spoil board. It can also kill the collet.

At the Aspire camp a few months ago, the advice was "The average person cannot over torque the collet."

[knight_toolworks]

0after I got my torque wrench I realized how much force it takes to get the required tightness. maybe it was me but one hand would not do it at all.

[Bob Eustace]

Somehow a few years back we lost our spanner somewhere in the workshop on a day we were supposed to give a SB demo to a potential user. Found the perfect solution was the forged spanner that came with most old single speed Makita routers. Still using it today. Just in case we ordered the Sars cast nut spanner in case we ever lost it. Not as good as the HSD.

[tlempicke]

Cleaning the old sawdust out of the nut and Colet is an important thing too. As designed the Colet "Clicks" into place and does not actually release until you loosen the nut and actually pull it loose.