My dadoes are too tight was wondering where to change the tolerance. Thanks
My dadoes are too tight was wondering where to change the tolerance. Thanks
You can change the fit depth clearance (room for glue) and fit clearance (slop in the tenon) in eCabs when you design your cabinet. Look in Construction Settings and you will see all the different cabinet parts and what the clearances are for them all. I set my depth clearance to .03" and my fit clearance to .007.
Don
Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks, LLC
www.dlwoodworks.com
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Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece; But to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, bank accounts empty, credit cards maxed out, defiantly shouting "Geronimo"!
If you make something idiot proof, all they do is create a better idiot.
Thanks a lot for your help I will mess with it tonight.
I changed some settings and now it's much better. It was set to .01 and I changed them to .025 and it's good. Thanks again for your help
I have since changed my dadoes to be .035 to make them fit good. Looking at the fit I know something isn't right because there is not 1/32" of slop in the joint. I set my plywood to .48 and my cutter mic's to .370. I feel I have something else I'm compensating for. I had to redo all my drawings since the computer crashed and know I never has to mess with the dado clearance
A couple things you will become more familiar with and how to compensate for as time goes on is bit deflection and backlash. Both of these affect accuracy when you are dealing with the desire for very close fits of parts. There is also (if you are running a router and not a spindle) runout from the collet.
Another thing is if you are climb cutting your dados that will cause bit deflection (stated above).
Kyle Stapleton
River Falls Renaissance Academy
Math/Technology Education Teacher
PRS Alpha 96x60 2.2 hp spindle, Double Air drills, 6" indexer, Fein 5 zone vac table
Desktop w/spindle
Potter Pen
Aspire 8.5, Creo 3.0
Steve and Kyle are correct. Shopbots do have some flex in them. No matter how tight you make everything they will have more deflection then big iron machines.
To deal with that, we have to get creative ways to compensate for the flex. For me, I create a separate tool for doing dados and tenons. I make the cut depth on these pretty shallow - 1/8". So when making these cuts, the machine flex and bit deflection are very minimal. I also do conventional cuts on these. For cutting parts out, I always do climb cuts leaving a 1/32" skin. This pushed the bit AWAY from the cut line. Then I do a conventional cut on the remaining 1/32". Virtually no machine flex or bit deflection when removing so little material. These are not my ideas. These were passed along to me by very experienced Shopbotters many years ago. Another thing to make sure is that all your ramp settings (search on Brady's ramping article) are optimal for your machine. Make sure all your drive motors are properly adjusted. Bearings in good shape. Pinions in good shape.
I use these ideas in both SBLink and when cutting in Aspire.
Don
Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks, LLC
www.dlwoodworks.com
***********************************
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece; But to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, bank accounts empty, credit cards maxed out, defiantly shouting "Geronimo"!
If you make something idiot proof, all they do is create a better idiot.
Thanks for all the replies and help so far. I do appreciate it
Hey Don-Which Steve is that? LOL