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Thread: BURL advice needed

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    Only dealt with small free pieces with 50-75% burl wrap....bigger pieces still have bark inclusions even in 360 degree 14-16" ball burls in White oak?
    NOT all burls are perfect smooth spheres!
    Oh...last piece was cut with a Whiteside 1.25" Mortising bit at 3,1,16K up to .1" pass depth...bark inclusions stayed PUT.
    Same settings for most rough cuts on the 2 pieces until I got to where I wanted, then a .02" pass depth same settings for final pass.
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Garland Tx
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    A truckload of Burls cheap? Steve Glassel: Are you on the way???

    It’s funny how life changes over night! My business partner decided to retire, sell all and live on a boat… The kiln was on his property… Lately, the most profitable thing I’m doing is cutting UHMW parts for a conveyor company… talk about a mess!

    I have a few burls but can’t make myself cut them into projects, they’re so interesting just setting on the mantel!

    I have zero experience with white oak, red oak, yes, but still most of my work is in Pecan.

    SG

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    Aah..That is a major change Steve
    You DO still have your "Stash" though...right?
    Your woodwork is always very nice to look at!

    Did you Solar Kiln all your Red Oak burls?
    Did bark stay tight....or with a little work could you get it off?
    Finding just a Hint of spalt in a couple...would one Winter out help bark come off if end grain coated?

    Thinking it won't take much to change my "Greenhouse" into a solar kiln, as in March/April can hit 130F before the White Oaks leaf out.
    Usually can shut furnace off in house on March 1 last 15 years, just opening 2 atrium doors and turning a fan on.
    Or sell any green to turners?

    May just buy myself if I can dicker a couple chainsaw hours, and one or 2 slabbed on his brothers Woodmizer.
    Need to cut one of my "Ball Burls" in half and cut before I go for it though.

    Thanks for all help people!
    scott
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    Does anybody recognize the lathe this wheelchair guy is actually cutting on in his 'Chair?
    https://vimeo.com/74453432
    The height of everything looks good.
    Of course the sweeping looks like a PITA
    scott
    Last edited by scottp55; 12-24-2018 at 06:15 AM.
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Garland Tx
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    “Did you Solar Kiln all your Red Oak burls”

    Sorry I miss-led you… I wasn’t talking about burl, but wood in general! In my experience, bark stays on wood that was cut during the winter and falls off spring and summer cut. My next observation is that burl is weird and doesn’t follow normal rules! Now if you ask about spalted, I can go on forever!

    SG

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    Thanks Steve.
    Cut at 50F rainy day, and next day was 58F! Now frozen...may get lucky and bark will loosen.

    Out to shop to cut a standing dead wood double burled branch...and cut a green ball in half before I consider buying the whole darn truckload myself.
    Must be half convinced, as just bought a Japanese Log Saw, that won't be delivered till March
    https://www.garrettwade.com/japanese...SABEgKpD_D_BwE
    Gonna make my own darn sheath
    Thanks!
    scott
    Some may be spalted...be prepared
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    94

    Thumbs up Thank You

    Quote Originally Posted by scottp55 View Post
    Ha Bob.....a Burl "corduroy" road......12-18" chunks of wood on my dirt road would pretty much eliminate visitors, and make a snow wood mountain shortly with plowing
    No vehicle myself, or I MIGHT try it on the front grown up lawn.
    I think enough freeze/thaw cycles in garage would do it, but going to put them in my attached 32X8" "Plant Torture Room" (greenhouse....where temps this winter will range from 20-130F.
    On small Yellow Birch burl Bobtail Farm gave me....I coated the flat chainsaw side with 80/20 Linseed/Beeswax "Butter" then floated in sink bark side down for 24 hours, then in and out of freezer 3 times....and it popped off with a small wedge and my smallest dead blow fast!
    Attachment 32356Attachment 32357
    May try spud soon, as cambium layer is very soft and shrink fast as it's so soft and porous...I think a Winter of freeze/thaws will do it.

    Jerry, really depends on what I'm trying to do. If green logs, then recut to rid of any checking if fresh cut, then the cheapest almost "anything" to slow the end grain moisture loss will work....house paint/basement concrete sealer/almost anything will help. I happen to have a pickle jar full of the above LinWax mix left from children's blocks...so that's what I used on the fresh chainsaw cuts on the burls. I do virtually all oil finishes, so always coat fresh cutoffs with it and it won't interfere with my finish.
    50/50 Food Grade Mineral oil/Beeswax,regular paraffin, or micro-crystalline wax is a non-drying non-toxic food safe finish called "Wood Butter" for cutting boards and wood utensils is good..but needs regular Easy refinishing, BUT will mess up any other finish.

    For plain Vanilla wood without any outstanding grain, I mix up an 80/20 Earthpaint Linseed/Beeswax mix in a double boiler(kind of using canning jars) in simmering water(beeswax only needs 150F,so not even simmer is needed)...and then stir as it cools to homogenize. Use that as my go-to finish...Beeswax will only give you a satin finish, but sanded to 600G previously..darn close to a semi-gloss with 3-5 coats....ALL excess taken off....and then rub AGAIN with a totally clean cloth or Viva Brand paper towel.
    Tung can be used also, but jells to soon for me except in very small batches.

    These burls and fancy grains and exotics are getting1-2 coats of a 30/30/40mix of Earthpaint 3D Illuminator/Earthpaint Linseed/D-limonene (Milk Paint, but almost any good citrus thinner will work).
    **Warning**in August, last gallon of Earthpaint takes 3-4 days to dry(used to be one coat a day with a fan), and 3D Illuminator used to be about the consistency of a brushing lacquer, and SHOCKED me when it came out like blob of cold molasses!!! Worked FINE once I added enough citrus thinner for my liking(stretches it wonderful!)

    GOT to do a test of old vs. new and write them...maybe just got a bad batch that didn't get up to temp? NO heavy metal salts like hardware store "Boiled Linseed" IT'S NOT BOILED!
    Cadmium and other heavy metal salts are NOT good for you or kids! Probably lost a couple years using "Japan Dryer"

    THINK I cover it Jerry?
    If not e-mail me from my contact list.
    Oh....and merry Christmas back at you!
    scott


    Scott, thank you, Wow you are busy guy at the key board.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    A lot more mixes depending on use.....Andrew C. get's GORGEOUS finishes by a coat of Watco.....wait a week....and then spray a commercial finish(?)
    Do e-mail if needed for something oil finish related, and thanks for all the kind comments this year!

    Yep...do tend to ramble!

    Steve.....When my Steve showed with the pickup load....one piece I made sure I grabbed was the WORST CASE in the truckload. PUNKY!!! Jigging now to see if any spalting or anything interesting.
    Shoulda bought that wood hardener, but too cold in garage anyways
    Spring will come eventually
    scott
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    Dang!
    He offered me the load on the 24'th for $400.....shoulda took it, but not a wood turner and it was a lot of wood and money.
    Did another piece yesterday, and decided to buy the load.
    Didn't want to bug him on Christmas, and know darn well he works 6:30am almost every day.....BUT I was polite and waited till 9am, in case He WAS sleeping late the day after.
    While I was being polite...the guy who offered $200 and got refused showed back up at 6:30am, and dickered.
    Sold the entire load for $575, and was delivering it when I called
    When you see special wood AND it's reasonable......BUY it!
    Cleaned the greenhouse at least
    STILL 5 cherry picked pieces CHEAP(and 3 free) are better than nothing.
    Yesterday's cut decided me.
    scott
    Attached Images Attached Images
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kennebunkport, Maine
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    Cut the smallest burl left in half along the "Lobe" line, and on the better half, just cut a slight dish shape on the top for a gem display yesterday.

    Tried 7 different arrays for a fluting toolpath with vectors Trimmed with the Trim Vectors tool, with 4 different bits.....and didn't like ANY of them because of that "fissure" that Mom said she liked...it broke the symmetry of the Fluting too much.
    BUT Phill05 on the Vectric forum whipped me up an .STL in Aspire as a favor for some wildlife pics he's modeling I've been sending
    Worked a treat!

    Now just to determine if it's mine and leave the way it is...or if Mom likes it...then have to flip and machine base(Dome shape with 3 vectors for legs with a .5"BN maybe?)....
    As she does NOT like a lot of bark.
    Bark is TIGHT!!!
    So far all this playing has only cost $10
    I'll get nervous on the 2 big burls left to saw!
    scott
    scott P.
    2013 Desktop/spindle/VCP 11.5**
    Maine

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