Ha Bob.....a Burl "corduroy" road......12-18" chunks of wood on my dirt road would pretty much eliminate visitors, and make a snow wood mountain shortly with plowing
No vehicle myself, or I MIGHT try it on the front grown up lawn.
I think enough freeze/thaw cycles in garage would do it, but going to put them in my attached 32X8" "Plant Torture Room" (greenhouse
....where temps this winter will range from 20-130F.
On small Yellow Birch burl Bobtail Farm gave me....I coated the flat chainsaw side with 80/20 Linseed/Beeswax "Butter" then floated in sink bark side down for 24 hours, then in and out of freezer 3 times....and it popped off with a small wedge and my smallest dead blow fast!
Attachment 32356Attachment 32357
May try spud soon, as cambium layer is very soft and shrink fast as it's so soft and porous...I think a Winter of freeze/thaws will do it.
Jerry, really depends on what I'm trying to do. If green logs, then recut to rid of any checking if fresh cut, then the cheapest almost "anything" to slow the end grain moisture loss will work....house paint/basement concrete sealer/almost anything will help. I happen to have a pickle jar full of the above LinWax mix left from children's blocks...so that's what I used on the fresh chainsaw cuts on the burls. I do virtually all oil finishes, so always coat fresh cutoffs with it and it won't interfere with my finish.
50/50 Food Grade Mineral oil/Beeswax,regular paraffin, or micro-crystalline wax is a non-drying non-toxic food safe finish called "Wood Butter" for cutting boards and wood utensils is good..but needs regular Easy refinishing, BUT will mess up any other finish.
For plain Vanilla wood without any outstanding grain, I mix up an 80/20 Earthpaint Linseed/Beeswax mix in a double boiler(kind of using canning jars) in simmering water(beeswax only needs 150F,so not even simmer is needed)...and then stir as it cools to homogenize. Use that as my go-to finish...Beeswax will only give you a satin finish, but sanded to 600G previously..darn close to a semi-gloss with 3-5 coats....ALL excess taken off....and then rub AGAIN with a totally clean cloth or Viva Brand paper towel.
Tung can be used also, but jells to soon for me except in very small batches.
These burls and fancy grains and exotics are getting1-2 coats of a 30/30/40mix of Earthpaint 3D Illuminator/Earthpaint Linseed/D-limonene (Milk Paint, but almost any good citrus thinner will work).
**Warning**in August, last gallon of Earthpaint takes 3-4 days to dry(used to be one coat a day with a fan), and 3D Illuminator used to be about the consistency of a brushing lacquer, and SHOCKED me when it came out like blob of cold molasses!!! Worked FINE once I added enough citrus thinner for my liking(stretches it wonderful!)
GOT to do a test of old vs. new and write them...maybe just got a bad batch that didn't get up to temp? NO heavy metal salts like hardware store "Boiled Linseed" IT'S NOT BOILED!
Cadmium and other heavy metal salts are NOT good for you or kids! Probably lost a couple years using "Japan Dryer"
THINK I cover it Jerry?
If not e-mail me from my contact list.
Oh....and merry Christmas back at you!
scott