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Thread: Ideas on making this barnwood sign

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  1. #1
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    Default Ideas on making this barnwood sign

    I have a customer that wants me to make the faces for this sign. this is a rendering. his customer was a barnwood look and is willing to maintain it.
    but gluing barnwood onto say a piece of dibond is not a great idea. I was thinking of planing the boards down to 1/8" to make it a veneer and epoxy it onto a piece of 1/4" dibond then coat the face in epoxy then use a uv protection on that. I would also seal the edges after I cut through the face.
    does thsi sound like a good idea? would I need to laminate the backside too?
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  2. #2
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    I would do it with some nice Western Red Cedar planks.
    I would use Sikkens for the finish so he would only have to put a new coat on every couple years with no prep beyond cleaning needed.
    Epoxy on an outdoor sign face, even with a UV poly over it, is asking for trouble IMHO.
    Of course, you could also texture sign foam and faux paint it with exterior latex.

  3. #3
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    IMHO...

    We would use a sheet of Maple plywood, 3/4" thick. That would be two sheets for this project.
    1. Design the planks and cut them into the maple (to give the illusion of glued-up planks)
    2. Spray or brush the finished sign with lamp black stain.
    3. Sand off the lamp black with 220 grit (after it is dry).
    4. Spray or brush with General Finishes Pewter Die.
    5. Poly for a finish coat.

    Here we have designed and cut a wine barrel using Maple playwood. You could design and cut the planks. Actually, you can get wood plank artwork from vectorstock.com.
    winebarrel.jpg
    Last edited by woodshop; 02-28-2019 at 07:31 AM. Reason: spelling
    Dave B
    New Mexico
    Our most important shop tool is the pencil sharpener!

  4. #4
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    I had thought of that.I can't do the painting though my paint skills are nil. but I will throw both at him.

    Quote Originally Posted by woodshop View Post
    IMHO...

    We would use a sheet of Maple plywood, 3/4" thick. That would be two sheets for this project.
    1. Design the planks and cut them into the maple (to give the illusion of glued-up planks)
    2. Spray or brush the finished sign with lamp black stain.
    3. Sand off the lamp black with 220 grit (after it is dry).
    4. Spray or brush with General Finishes Pewter Die.
    5. Poly for a finish coat.

    Here we have designed and cut a wine barrel using Maple playwood. You could design and cut the planks. Actually, you can get wood plank artwork from vectorstock.com.

  5. #5
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    Rogers, Arkansas
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    I would glue up the wood, pocket the letter outline into the wood 1/4" or so, and apply letters cut from White PVC, signfoam, or even dibond so they stood slightly proud of the background. Like Dave I'd use a wood other than barnwood and finish with sikkens. Makes finishing easy - finish the wood separately, spray the letters white, then combine once all are finished.
    Ken Zey
    Lookout Mercantile / Digital Millwork
    Rogers, AR
    www.CedarSlabSigns.com
    www.lookoutmercantile.com
    www.digitalmillwork.com

    6x12 PRS alpha

  6. #6
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    If it's going to be for exterior display, you won't want to use maple. You know the customer won't always keep up with the maintenance schedule and maple will rot/spalt easily. White oak would be better than maple if going the solid wood route and exterior use.

    Nice looking barrel design Woodshop!
    Scott

    If guns kill people, I guess pencils misspell words, cars drive drunk and spoons make people fat.

    "Those who hammer their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not" - Thomas Jefferson




  7. #7
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    So when I retired from active cabinetry making a guy I had bought from locally took over my space.
    Why would I post that here?
    Check out his site: https://www.drvawood.com/
    New solid alder boards finished in water based and distressed.
    Product looks great in person but note that like genuine old planks is not dead flat like flooring.
    Grain pattern is quite distinct.

  8. #8
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    ok finally customer got his stuff together. he is a new sign guy so he needs hand holding. I decided to go with wood as he is not skilled at painting I used west systems g flex epoxy to glue 1/8" cedar onto dibond. I used the metal side and sanded it well. man this epoxy stinks. but you see in the pic even with all that bending it is not coming loose. my customer will put semi transpartent stain on it and his customer knows they need to apply the stain through the years. Now I need to recut the letter centers as the a vanished. then I will be cutting the acrylic push through letters.
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  9. #9
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    Steve,

    Nice looking sign.

    Push through letters are good looking with light behind them. My only concern is moisture that will set around the letters which will cause the wood to swell or come apart. If the wood is plywood it's going to be a problem.

    Best wishes.

    Joe

  10. #10
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    these will be lighted. but they are going to use a gray stain on the wood so it wont contrast well. I was worried about wood movement too. so I used cedar and planed it down to 1/8" as thats the thickness wood does not move very much. then the flexible epoxy should help. I wanted to use e600 but You cant glue large surfaces that way. but I also told them the face may fail and they were ok with it. they also need ot use a deck stain on it on a regular basis.

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