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Thread: Advice needed.....

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Default Advice needed.....

    I need advice from you cabinet and countertop guys (like Bleeth and others). This may not be a shopbot solution (i'm 700 miles away from mine so that won't help anyway) but here is my dilema. In the pics you'll see my walls are almost perfectly square but when i glued the countertops together
    I have about a 1" gap at the corner.
    is there any kind of solution i can do to hide the gap? Some kind of backsplash or something tapered that doesn't look cheesy?
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  2. #2
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    Oct 2013
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    So, your counter top was built out-of-square?
    Anything you do, will look terrible with that amount of gap. I would cut the counter top, and square it. If you don't have enough material to get it cut to square it, you may need to start over.
    I always make a hardboard template, that matches all the surfaces that will contact. Then make careful cuts, and check everything for fitment, before gluing it up.

  3. #3
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    The 6" in the corner might be pretty square, but your walls might be bulging out a couple feet out from the corner. Usually, you can scribe the contour of the wall to the top of the backsplash and take a belt sander to the backsplash to match the contour of the wall. Looks like your wall is out quite a bit though.
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  4. #4
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    Sep 2014
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    With that much out of square, limited options. What your trying to do is fool your eyes to give it the illusion of it being straight. You can scribe it, but you may not have enough material on top of the counter top to do it all. You can cut into the sheetrock so you don't have to scribe the counter top. The best option may be to roll it into the corner, so you'll have a even gap on both sides of the corner. Put in some chinking/ caulking backer and caulk it. Have the caulk roll a bit ,use your finger. Paint the caulk to match the wall color. If you scribe it, your going to highlight how far the wall is out. If you caulk and paint your going to see a nice straight edge on the back splash and the caulk will disappear. Remember your trying to fool the eye.

  5. #5
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    Mar 2006
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    The thing is, that end of the countertop is only about 2 ft long, to be that far out?
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    Words of Wisdom:
    “Words that sink into your ears are whispered…… not yelled”
    “The biggest trouble maker you’ll probably ever have to deal with, watches you from the mirror every morn’n”
    “The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth”
    -----------
    Just remember...when it's time for the hearse to pull up..there's no luggage rack on top!
    -----------
    The beauty of the Second Amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it...Thomas Jefferson

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by myxpykalix View Post
    The thing is, that end of the countertop is only about 2 ft long, to be that far out?
    How does the front overhang look?
    I'd say scribe and sand... but you're liable to take so much off that it messes up the overhang. If you can get it fairly close, you can caulk it.
    Is the sheetrock new or old? I ask because I rebuilt a house not too long ago, and had a similar issue when I went to set the counters, turned out my sheetrock guys had not cutout one of the electrical boxes and the sheetrock was bowed out.

  7. #7
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    Delray Beach, FL
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    It's the walls, not the counters. The companies that make those inexpensive laminate postformed tops get 90 degree square right on but walls rarely are.
    If you really want it to look right then pick up some drywall mud and float the wall (in stages).

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    US
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    Like I said, all options listed, will look like poo. Very noticeable. With the exception of drywall work, and that is work.
    You didn't mention if the overhead cabinets fit properly in the corner.
    From the image of the counter top, it doesn't appear factory seamed. There is an obvious seam. All of the tops I've ever seen, don't have the substrate (dark line) showing, the pattern meets tight. There's only a change in direction.

  9. #9
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    Memphis TN
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8Ball View Post
    Like I said, all options listed, will look like poo. Very noticeable. With the exception of drywall work, and that is work.
    I've done a lot of drywall work so for me, it would be a matter of maybe an hour not counting drying time. I would use the edge of the top cabinet as a seam and not go any farther. After straightening out the corner, the rest would be caulk. The end result would look perfect. There are few options that would result in that end. Of all the things that can be done in a house, drywall is the most forgiving and easiest to correct errors and screwups.
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Thanks for the replies but i figured out a solution. What i did was to scribe a piece of wood to attach to the back and ordered a 2 inch wide strip of the same laminate. Glued the laminate onto the wood, shaved it down, the two straight edges butted up good and that solved the problem.
    Words of Wisdom:
    “Words that sink into your ears are whispered…… not yelled”
    “The biggest trouble maker you’ll probably ever have to deal with, watches you from the mirror every morn’n”
    “The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth”
    -----------
    Just remember...when it's time for the hearse to pull up..there's no luggage rack on top!
    -----------
    The beauty of the Second Amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it...Thomas Jefferson

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