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Thread: Shop Floor Recommendation

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by coryatjohn View Post
    What brand of epoxy did you use? I have a new garage I want to do with epoxy.

    I don't know the brand the company used. I hired someone to do it when the floor was done.
    Don
    Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks, LLC
    www.dlwoodworks.com
    ***********************************
    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece; But to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, bank accounts empty, credit cards maxed out, defiantly shouting "Geronimo"!

    If you make something idiot proof, all they do is create a better idiot.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by curtiss View Post
    I would suppose you would want the heating & ventilation system separate from the rest of the residence...

    that might take some thought
    My shop floor has radiant floor heating. Recirculating (blown air heaters) and wood shops just don't seem to play nice together. Furnace filters are clogged in minutes leading to furnace motor burnout. Seen it happen to several friends who setup shops in their basements.
    Don
    Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks, LLC
    www.dlwoodworks.com
    ***********************************
    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece; But to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, bank accounts empty, credit cards maxed out, defiantly shouting "Geronimo"!

    If you make something idiot proof, all they do is create a better idiot.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by evan View Post
    If you have the head room, while thinking of ventilation you might consider a raised floor with dust collection coming from below, it can leave you with a much larger feeling shop.
    If you go this route, this could be an excellent time to consider radiant floor heating.
    Don
    Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks, LLC
    www.dlwoodworks.com
    ***********************************
    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece; But to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, bank accounts empty, credit cards maxed out, defiantly shouting "Geronimo"!

    If you make something idiot proof, all they do is create a better idiot.

  4. #14
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    The table in the lower right of the picture sits on top of a motorcycle lift so I can raise it up and down. Makes it more comfortable to work on projects. It is pneumatic. One of the best additions I made to the shop over the years.
    Don
    Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks, LLC
    www.dlwoodworks.com
    ***********************************
    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece; But to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, bank accounts empty, credit cards maxed out, defiantly shouting "Geronimo"!

    If you make something idiot proof, all they do is create a better idiot.

  5. #15
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    Dec 2011
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    Epoxy: Sherwin-Williams "Macropoxy 646 Fast Cure Epoxy" B58-600 Part A, B58V600 Part B hardener. Paid $135 for a two gallon set. Due to cost, I skipped on main floor, and only covered the 22x32 floor in my finishing room, which I recall was a single, very heavy coat for max coverage. Amazing durability, tint-able, and is quite necessary if you use a plastic floor protectant in a finishing room as I do.

    Consider this: Many other floor paints available, but You will likely only do this once, so it's worth the bucks for the good stuff.

    Also: Second all of DLCW's comments on the radiant heat. You'll have to lay out the tubing on top of current concrete floor, loosely fastened/tamed, then pour a couple inches of fresh concrete over it.
    If you DIY it, call / visit the Radiant Company out of Vermont. VERY reasonable kit pricing - did my 42x64 shop a couple years ago with 7/8" ID tubing for max flow, and recall it was about the same price as a properly sized Reznor ceiling hanging shop heater. Approximately $2,500 for 1,000 ft tubing (five 200ft circuits), bench-assembled manifold and recirculation set, including $1k tankless hot water heater. Just call a plumber if you'd rather not sweat it all together yourself. NO comparison in terms of quality/evenness of heat, plus the safety already mentioned.

    As for dust collection in floor, even more work, plus significant loss of headroom as you'll likely need to raise it 5-7" depending on the duct work. LOTS more fuss and accessories needed to get radiant working properly under a wooden deck also. Concrete and radiant are a prime pairing.

    FWIW
    Good luck!

    Jeff

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jTr View Post
    Epoxy: Sherwin-Williams "Macropoxy 646 Fast Cure Epoxy" B58-600 Part A, B58V600 Part B hardener. Paid $135 for a two gallon set. Due to cost, I skipped on main floor, and only covered the 22x32 floor in my finishing room, which I recall was a single, very heavy coat for max coverage. Amazing durability, tint-able, and is quite necessary if you use a plastic floor protectant in a finishing room as I do.

    Consider this: Many other floor paints available, but You will likely only do this once, so it's worth the bucks for the good stuff.

    Also: Second all of DLCW's comments on the radiant heat. You'll have to lay out the tubing on top of current concrete floor, loosely fastened/tamed, then pour a couple inches of fresh concrete over it.
    If you DIY it, call / visit the Radiant Company out of Vermont. VERY reasonable kit pricing - did my 42x64 shop a couple years ago with 7/8" ID tubing for max flow, and recall it was about the same price as a properly sized Reznor ceiling hanging shop heater. Approximately $2,500 for 1,000 ft tubing (five 200ft circuits), bench-assembled manifold and recirculation set, including $1k tankless hot water heater. Just call a plumber if you'd rather not sweat it all together yourself. NO comparison in terms of quality/evenness of heat, plus the safety already mentioned.

    As for dust collection in floor, even more work, plus significant loss of headroom as you'll likely need to raise it 5-7" depending on the duct work. LOTS more fuss and accessories needed to get radiant working properly under a wooden deck also. Concrete and radiant are a prime pairing.

    FWIW
    Good luck!

    Jeff

    I did my 40x80 shop building with 7/8 Pex tubing, and complete kit from the same company back in 2006 for about $3500. That included 2 separate zones with multiple segments on each zone. Because electricity is so inexpensive where I live, I went with a 100amp electric on-demand boiler. Propane would have cost about double what electric costs.

    I know they make radiant floor kits that can fasten to the underside of a wood floor using aluminum panels to direct the heat UP. It'd probably be tough to do that setup under a false floor about 10" off the concrete floor. I think Jeffs idea of putting tubing down then pouring a layer of concrete over it would be the best.

    The MOST important thing about a radiant floor system is YOU CAN"T ATTACH STUFF TO THE FLOOR USING BOLTS OR CONCRETE NAILS without the danger of puncturing the tubing. I used construction adhesive to attach my walls to the floor.
    Don
    Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks, LLC
    www.dlwoodworks.com
    ***********************************
    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece; But to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out, bank accounts empty, credit cards maxed out, defiantly shouting "Geronimo"!

    If you make something idiot proof, all they do is create a better idiot.

  7. #17
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    Jun 2013
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    Pasadena, CA
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    Thanks All for the great recommendations. I will check out the epoxy coating and the tiles.

    Also good idea with the floor heating but I guess that will just blow my budget. Clogging the HVAC filters is a concern but maybe I will just cover the vents and set up one or two radiator heaters. Since the shop is all surrounded by the house except for one foundation and one outside wall I hope the heat loss is manageable.

    Thanks for the picture of the shop. I don't need a setup for production work, since I usually do one-off projects. But the idea with the motorcycle lift is great and I will see how much space I can reserve for an extended table saw. The basement is not one big room but split up in a somewhat bigger and 2 somewhat smaller rooms. I will probably reserve one for storage and dirty work like welding and grinding. I guess it will all be moved around a bit before I settle on a layout.

    There is only a small part of concrete basement wall so I guess this will not be much concern. Being a newer house from 2009, I hope they did a good job on moisture insulation anyway.

    All very exciting!

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burkhardt View Post
    Since the shop is all surrounded by the house except for one foundation and one outside wall I hope the heat loss is manageable.

    We live in a climate that (except for this year) gets below 0°f this time of year. I've never had the unheated space drop below 45°f, 20 years and counting. Only the garage door wall, is exposed to outside temperatures and another is a divider wall between unheated stalls. The other walls and ceiling are protected by the house, sounds similar to yours. That's normally warm enough I rarely turn on the heater, but it's nice to have the extra boost when needed, like staining, etc.
    Even the second unheated stall next to it with 3 outside walls exposed never freezes, but it does get close when there's extreme cold and wind.

  9. #19
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    SOUTH CENTRAL COLORADO
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    My fairly new shop is barn shaped 16x20x16. I left the floor concrete. i have a wall mounted 30 amp heater which does a great of warming it up. Now am i messing up by leaving the floor concrete?

  10. #20
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    Jan 2004
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    Wild Atlantic Way
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottp55 View Post
    Step-mom doesn't like guns, so Dad had 3 generations of them stored downstairs along with his woodworking and other tools...BIG mistake!
    In those 5 yrs, Everything not REALLY oiled developed a surface coat of rust that myself and two brothers are spending a LOT of time gradually removing

    Dad's old CNC building was built by the company I was working for when injured, and was told it got 3 coats of an alcohol based sealant for moisture/dust, but forget what it was
    Brother just built an subtractive and additive engineering shop I'm due to visit soon....Clean Environment....I'll ask him how he sealed the shop floor, and ask what they spec'd in his and Dad's old shop floor.

    Is DC and compressor going to be in a sound proofed separate room?
    Humidifier and dehumidifier planned for a stable workshop?

    FUN planning
    Good luck G. !
    I share your concern with the rust, my shop is a few hundred yards from the sea in southern Ireland, l came across Evaporust to remove the rust, l was astonished how well it works
    Last edited by benchmark; 01-25-2020 at 07:06 AM.

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