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Thread: Help With 3 Axis Zero Plate

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    , On
    Posts
    863

    Default

    With my old controller it had a "motors off" command and I could manually move the router into it's final position. I had the old ball screw Z. I would put a piece of paper under the bit and turn the bit down until the paper would tear. Then MO "motors on" I was good to go. The 4g controller eliminated the motors on and off commands, and my upgrade to a new rack and pinion Z doubled down on it.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Thorp, WI
    Posts
    2,736

    Default

    Sneak up on it with the keypad after getting it close....

    "Several additional functions are provided. If you hit a <D> (upper or lower case) on your keyboard or click on the “fixed” button in the keypad window the tool will move a fixed distance. This distance is set in the small box that appears or in the Fill-In sheet by typing “VD” and changing the “KeyPad Fixed Distance” value"


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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Springfield Mo
    Posts
    835

    Default Years ago...

    Years ago, I laid out a few "reference squares" on a 48x48 table to help line things up on the x y.

    Squares were 12, 18, 24, 28, 36, 42 and 48 inches .... I think they were .04 deep with a .03 bit.

    Also drilled in a grid on 5 1/2 inch centers with a 1/4" threaded T insert mounted to the bottom to secure work pieces. (First hole is at 2,2)

    One can also come up from the bottom with a lag screw into the work piece to provide "pull down" instead of "hold down" ... The bolts come thru at the "high spots" in the vac plenum.

    "Pull down" works great for many things... one just has to miss the bolts each and every time.
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    The decimal point seems to be the most important on the z axis... x & y not so much....
    ShopBot... Where even the scraps and things you mess up and throw away are cool....

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