Cut3D - New 3D Model Machining Software

[tony_mac]

Hello Everyone,

We are very pleased to announce the release of our latest product Cut3D. Cut3D is the simplest way to machine 3D models from CAD or Graphics design products such as AutoCAD, Rhino3D, 3D Studio, Silo, Lightwave etc.

Scanned data from laser or touch probe devices such as the ShopBot Probe as well as the vast number of 3D models available off the Internet can also be machined quickly and easily.


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Cut3D is incredibly easy to use and includes roughing, finishing and cut out toolpath strategies, plus high quality 3D preview rendering that make the software perfect for cutting 3D projects.


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Cut3D includes automatic model boundary detection that minimizes cutting times plus interactive tab placement for holding parts in place. Large models that cannot fit under the gantry can be sliced into multiple pieces that can each be machined into thinner material and assembled to produce the finished model.

Please visit the Vectric web site for more information about Cut3D and to download the fully working Trial Version that lets you cut the sample models shown above on your ShopBot.

www.vectric.com

The Vectric Team

[Brady Watson]

This software is downright awesome! Nice job! (as if I should expect anything less to come from the Vectric team)


-B

[jseiler]

How does one retain registration on the flipping? Does cut3d software help with this in some way?

[Brady Watson]

John,
1st and foremost, whenever you do a double sided (or 4-sided) project you must properly prepare your material. This means precisely cutting the XY dimensions & planing and/or accurately measuring the material thickness. Once this is completed, you can set yourself up for 'the flip'.

You can do this in one of 3 ways:

1) Scribe lines in the X & Y directions that outline the bounding box of your material. Use a sharp pencil tip. If doing a 4-sided model, you will have to scribe lines for sides 'B & D' if the material is not the same thickness on all 4 sides.

2) Place a stop block in the Y-most and X-most extents of your material, and nail or screw the strips/blocks to the spoilboard. After the 1st side is done, clean any sawdust/swarf out of the corners and register your material against the blocks/stops.

3) Create/drill holes into the part & spoilboard to register the part with dowels.

I personally use pencil marks & make sure that I am still lined up with them after I fasten the part down on the 2nd side.

-B

[jhicks]

John, on 2 sided flips we have run by squaring off the lower left X& Y as Brady suggests but find that unless your stock is absolutely pure and exact, there is plenty of room for error. To reduce this tolerance, we have taken to using the centerline of the piece.
So we make a holding fixture, clamp, vacuum, or otherwise hold the piece in place, then with the artwork base X/Y Zero at the center of the artwork, we draw a sharp pencil line around the entire piece Y axis.
Then place the piece in the holding jig/position and draw another matching pencil line along the jig fence rail to match the line on the piece.

Now move your spindle/router bit or a veining bit to be dead on the line on your piece and zero your x right there.
Move to the center of the piece on the Y and center y right there.
Now since we will be only flipping the piece left to right or along the X axis, the same material square edge that rests on the 1st side x fence will be used on the 2nd side along the same fence and matching pencil centerline when its time for side 2.
In the end you split the tolerance so it produces better results than relying on the corner.
Once we flip we send the router over to the xy 0's and very carefully check to see that its DEAD ON THE LINE. To do this we use a laser mounted on the spindle or often its using a V bit so we have a nice sharp end to slowly lower and cut into the outside scrap and see if its DEAD on the line.
Amasingly its often just a very slight NUDGE to get it on but assume it's off even when you eyeball the fence line to the piece centerline and check with the bit tip and a shallow plunge. If you are using a 1/4" end mill for example, you will see immediately if its truly centered or not.

We have cut 2,1/4" complex shapes, curves, corners, 3d, and V carves on double sided pieces using this technique cutting half way through on the outline for side 1, then 1/2 way through on side 2 and outside outline matches on the nose.
Finally we used the same technique and left 1/8" between the top and bottom outside profiles to improve hold down, theb trimmed out the center web with a band saw ant that worked great as well, Just some belt and drum sanding and they came out perfect.

[paco]

The dowel system is very accurate and fool proof once you get the hang at the technique. The only drawback is that it require some more material to place the dowels away from the model; a "problem" mostly with square and rectangle models.

[fleinbach]

I personally prefer the dowel pin method. It is very easy and extremely accurate. I have machined pieces as small as a couple of inches, and as large as a full sheet with excellent results. I usually strive to place the pins in scrap material whenever possible. But I have sometimes through necessity just drilled a quarter inch hole right through the material and patched it later during assembly. 95% of what I do is made of MDF so it is getting painted anyway.

When creating your drawing you need only to locate two holes for alignment. The alignment holes need only be aligned with the X axis or the Y axis whichever you prefer.

[conceptmachine]

does anyone know if cut 3-d will do 2,2 1/2 d as well? i have autocad and solidworks,i just need a good cam package.most of my work will be 2 d but i would like to have 3-d capability any suggestions?
shawn

[paco]

Cut 3D is 3D CAM only... though it'll create cut out toolpath of your 3D model.

You need (want) V Carve PRO for 2D and 2-1/2D toolpathing.

[frank_hav]

I have been using Cut 3D for a couple weeks now and have to agree with Brady. This is an awesome product for the money. The Slicing feature alone is worth the money. Keep in mind though that the models created by the slicing function are .v3d files. They work in the software but nothing else I know of. I import .stl files from solidworks with no problems. I've also cut some files from VectorArt with the same great results.

Frank