Need help with photocarve

[radavis]

I been working with this for two month now, I've done all kind of different setting, and it looks good on the computer but when I get to the shopbot and cut the file, it look very very bad. I wish I never bought it. wish I could get my money back, is there something I'm missing. I've done all the help file and did what they say but still bad pic on machine. I'm sure it me so if some one can straight me out I be graf.
Thank Robert

[jsfrost]

Robert,

Is your machine and material absolutely flat? If not, it may help to skim the surface of your material with an end mill prior to cutting the photo.

Is your Z0 accurate. The photo V carve process requires very shallow cuts. Zeroing errors as little as .010 will cause poor results.

Do your V bits have a sharp point? Many V bits have rounded ends, and these cut poor photos.

I am getting reasonable and improving results with my efforts, but I would like to do better. One idea I plan to explore is a test photo consisting of a continuous transition black to white. I think a look the V carved results from such a photo would help with troubleshooting. I came up with the idea last night and will play after work tonight.

[bill]

Robert,
Agree with Jim, "Z" must be on the money! When cutting a MAX of .050", an error of .010" in Z is 20% of your information lost. I just got PhotoCarve and played last weekend with 45' and 60' V bits. ALL of the variables are crucial to include the type of material you are cutting. I found that the total number of lines cut is probably one of the most influential in reproducing a photo. Sometimes more depth and less lines is better. I can guess_timate that a photo which contains +/-20% black, +/- 20% white and the remainder shades of gray will result in the best replication. Trying a photo with all shades of gray (very little black and white) almost never gives a satisfactory cut only due to the depth of cut is always "gray" and never attains full depth or full retraction. I too must admit the computer displayed cut vs the actual cut in the material leaves a lot to be desired. The displayed computer cut will show a big difference with "Fill" turned ON/OFF. I will continue working with PhotoCarve and if I come up with any "Tips" I will more than pass them on.

Bill

[radavis]

Thinks Bill and Jim, I'm cutting lucite L it is for making motorcycle windshield it is pretty flat, I say + or -.001. the bit is a reg engraving bit that I us at the shop were I work, it has a .004 flat that may be what he problem is. I will see if I can find a v bit with no flat or radius on the end. I can see were the flatness would make it or break it. I will check my fixture and see how much run out or taper I have and skim it if it out.

thank once again
Robert

[jsfrost]

Robert,

Is the goal a photo like representation of the original, or a lithophane?

Jim

[radavis]

both I guess, I do custom motorcycle part and would like to be able to take a pic of my customer an put that on a windshield or a part of the bike.
Robert

[Brian Moran]

Robert,
You may be better asking specific questions on the PhotoVCarve section of the Vectric forum at http://vectric.com/forum as there are more PhotoVCarve users there.

You say you are cutting lucite for a windshield. How are you 'staining' the grooves to get the contrast you need for the PhotoVCarve process to work?


Brian

[myxpykalix]

Sounds like half your problem is the bits you are using. Go check out www.centuriontools.com you wont find any flat spots on these bits. Here is an example of one that i've used for 6 months or more.

27518.jpg

[radavis]

Brian there no stain you us a small colored rope light at the bottom of the windshield and it shine up thought it like a fiber op. thank Jack I will try the bit you show here.
Thank
Robert

[Brian Moran]

Robert,

quote:
Brian there no stain you us a small colored rope light at the bottom of the windshield and it shine up thought it like a fiber op

I think you will struggle to get the contrast doing this with the PhotoVCarve process. I can see that the grooves should 'glow' where the light is refracted / reflected out, but I'd be really suprised if this generated enough contrast to show the picture clearly.

I would love to be proved wrong though, and if you do get it to work, it would be great to see the result.


Brian